On 2009-04-09, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
On my radial drill (MT4 or MT5) you have to turn the quill down manually
against the stock without the machine running to press it in. I haven't
done it, but i know this machine would shear that tang right off. BTW, I
don't know my morse numbers. This machine is the size you find on 2" drill
bits.
These numbers are *not* exact, but often are close enough to help people
determine what morse taper thier machine uses. By not exact, I mean that
sometimes the taper extends past the spec. numbers on the tool or sometimes
the female is slightly more deep or shallow than it should be and thus the
measurement changes...
To determine what taper your machine has, measure either the greatest
diameter of the morse taper portion of the tool or the largest diameter of
the female morse taper cavity on the machine and compare to below:
Usually the male extends beyond the female (sometimes there is a
groove in the male to mark where the diameter should be measured).
However, if you have both the male and the female, you can measure the
male just where it exits the female at the big end. It is easier to get
a good measurement with calipers on a an external than an internal
diameter.
MT0 - 0.356"
MT1 - 0.475"
MT2 - 0.700"
MT3 - 0.938"
MT4 - 1.231"
MT4.5 - 1.500"
MT5 - 1.748"
MT6 - 2.494"
MT7 - 3.270"
More info he http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html
Also in Machinery's Handbook.
Personally, I've never heard of the MT0 or MT4.5 before studying about them
in depth... But apparently they exist. I'm guessing the MT4.5 is a rare
bird for sure!
Actually -- not rare at all. It is the internal taper on lathe
spindles with the L-00 external taper. I've got one (my 12x24"
Clausing). The reason for it is that a MT-4 is not *quite* large enough
to allow a collet closer nosepiece for the 5C collets.
Usually the taper in the spindle is a lot shorter than the full
length of the specified taper. And the lathe *should* come with an
adaptor from MT-4-1/2 to MT-3 or MT-2 (whichever matches the tailstock
taper).
As for MT-0 -- I have the reamer for that. I've used it to make
tapered sockets in dulcimers for fiddle tuning pegs. (It now lives in a
wooden box with a set of reamers from MT-1 through MT-5 -- skipping
MT-4-1/2.
I've also used it (the JT-0 reamer) to make a socket mounted in
a releasing tapping head for a set of tap holding collets.
The only place where I have found the MT-4-1/2 in _Machinery's
Handbook_ is in the table of "American National Standard self-holding
tapers". (And -- in that table they don't list the Morse Taper 0.) They
took B&S, Morse, and Jarno tapers and combined them to make a continuous
set of standard tapers, instead of designing from scratch. One nasty
bit about the Morse tapers is that each taper is a little different in
included angle, because they were defined by small end and large end
diameters before they could measure angles that accurately. The Jarno
tapers all have precisely the same taper, and are defined by the
diameter in hundredths of an inch at the gauge line. (The male taper
can extend beyond the gauge line, as above.) For example, the Jarno 600
has a large end diameter of 6.000"
Enjoy,
DoN.
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