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robo hippy robo hippy is offline
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Default Source for 3" H&L sanding disk gizmo/backing pad

The discs from Vince outlast anything I have used about 2 to 1.

If you are having problems with frying the hooks, then you are sanding
at too high of a speed, and using too much pressure. Are you using a
power sanding system, like a drill? I have a piece of 1/4 inch cork
under my trigger to keep the speed down. Sanding with the drill and
lathe at slower speeds does a much better job, and doesn't take any
more time. It also reduces the heat factor which can cause cracks in
the wood as well as delaminating the loop backing on the discs, and
melting the hooks, and I found this all out by experience before any
one told me about it.

I do use the interface pads as they are cheaper than buying a new
mandril. I keep my discs in pigeon holes to keep them organized. Most
abrasive companies will have numbers on most of the discs. I used to
cut my own, and had my daughter write the grit numbers on the discs
for 1 penny per disc. She loved it. I do keep the rubber eraser sticks
handy, and use them frequently.

As far as the tearout goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of
cure. Of course, keep your tools sharp. Dry wood will tear out more
than wet wood. Some woods will tear more than others. If you are
getting tear out, especially on dry wood, wet the wood with water or
finish oil, let it soak in for 60 seconds or so, and then make very
light cuts with a freshly sharpened tool to turn off all the wet
stuff. This can take a couple of applications to get rid of most of
the tearout. Finish cuts also make a difference. A finish cut is VERY
LIGHT where you get only whispy shavings. They are done at a shear
angle of 45 degrees or more. On the outside, a gouge with the handle
low, and using the wings of the gouge works fine. This is usually a
pulling cut (pulling the gouge towards you), and is not a stock
removal cut. It is used to smooth out any uneveness on the surface,
and will take several passes to touch up things. A scraper also works
well here, on a 45 degree angle, not held flat. It is more difficult
on the inside of the bowl. Here, I prefer a scraper (I am a bit
unusual in this preference), again at a 45 degree angle, and a gentle
pull cut (almost impossible to do as a push cut). Be careful near the
rim, as it will vibrate, and you may need to do it in steps as you
finish turn: turn down to finish thickness about 1 to 2 inches, finish
shear cut, then go down another 1 to 2 inches, finish shear cut, etc
till you get to the bottom. You will get better with practice.

robo hippy



On Mar 5, 7:57*am, Gerald Ross wrote:
StephenM wrote:
Like this:


http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st...k_and_Loop___Q...


I find craft supplies' shipping costs to be a bit harsh, so I would like to
entertain alternatives.


Here's my issue: I have a tendency to fry the H&L grippies in these things
*way* too quickly. Like 4 bowls?


I really the way it can eliminate some interior tearout in short order but
it can get a bit expensive. So, in the interest of controlling cost, I have
the following questions:


1. someone posted a source for this stuff a while back. It was a one-guy
outfit that sold presumably top quality abrasives to turners.... might
anyone have that link?


2. Is using an interface pad the way to go for limiting the cost of fried
Velcro?


3. Is PSA *better bet?


4. Might I just be using crappy technique, pushing to hard and letting the
abrasive get too hot?


Thanks,


Steve


1. Was ithttp://www.vinceswoodnwonders.com/purchase%20abrasives.htm
* * * *He is a nice guy and the discs are ok but the ones I got were not
color coded and did not have the grit number on the back so was easy
to mix them up. *After shopping around for a few years I have settled
on Klingspor disks.

2. Yes

3. No

4. Yes. *Keep an air gun nearby, stop sanding frequently and cool
the disk with the compressed air. Sand at 200 rpm or the nearest
you can get. I have a supply of industrial hook and loop strips. If I
burn the hooks off I just sand them off on my big disk sander and glue
on another layer. But I am always working on the interface pad, not
the original H&L on the disk mandrel.

Thought I sent this earlier, but it never showed up.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Insert inevitable trivial witticism of
your choice.