In article , The Medway
Handyman writes
fred wrote:
In article
,
writes
Andrew Mawson wrote:

London Bar:

http://www.londonbar.co.uk/

Personally I make my own from 1" x 1/4" strip

AWEM


Screwing stuff to the frame is missing the point, the frame is the
weakest part of the setup. You need to screw through into the masonry
to get decent strength.

Not really, without the strengthening that Dave is proposing, the
frame will pop long before it is dislodged from the wall. Once the
frame has been strengthened, then is the time to consider fixing the
frame more securely.

For Dave: I would normally fabricate something like this from 3mm x 40
or 3mm x 25 strip fixed into the frame fixed every 100mm with 75mm
screws but I understand why you would want something off the shelf.
The pretty way to do it is to remove the architrave and strike plate
and fit a thinish (3mm) metal strip under that before reinstating the
cosmetic coverings and filling the gaps.

Andrew's source looks good for ready made but it wont be pretty.

Situation is the student accommodation at the local Uni. 8 blocks each of 4
floors, each floor has two flats. Drunken student forgets keys, uses door
entry intercom to get into block, barges flat door to get in. I usually
repair at least one a week, cut out damaged section, insert new bit, glue &
screw etc.

Trouble is on one door in particular I'm running out of frame to patch :-)

Gotcha, many conflicting interests the
1. Deliberate damage lets the college/uni repair the (criminal) damage
to best security and recover the cost from the criminal.
2. Lowest quote gets the job mentality encourages filling with P38 and
minimal security.
3. TMH wants to do the best job within price constraints to encourage
repeat business.

Best practice for a secure but economic repair would probably be:
4. Cut out the affected section and replace with a dovetailed repair
piece.
5. Add 2mm x 30 steel strip to the of edge of the frame on the inside
with sufficient overlap to reinforce the inset repair. Rebate into the
edge to allow the rimlock strike seat properly.
6. Add another 2mm plate to the face of the frame to reinforce the
splintered section, again rebating to ensure a good fit on the rimlock
strike.
7. Use a good drill and bits to drill the mountings for the strike
through the steel.

Derate to suit the client's budget.

Big screws from the plate into the edge of frame do tighten the job up
noticeably.

A steel stockholder will cut 2mm steel sheet into strip for minimal cost
but it would be up to you to drill holes and countersink ( a bench drill
stand recommended).

In contrast, the London bars are cheap and show visible intent to secure
but without an extra plate on the face of a splintered frame it might
not be enough.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs