On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 05:50:05 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:
On Jan 13, 11:25=A0pm, Andy Asberry wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 06:02:19 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:
On Jan 12, 9:39=A0pm, "Greg O" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message
Also, I mixed up the lifters as they fell out before I could figure
out which one went with which lifter. They have no itendifiable
marking on them.
If you got those in the wrong hole, the valves are NOT adjusted.
I appreciate your help. This is my first rebuild and I want it to be
a sucess but I am tempted to go down to the harbor freight store and
buy that 6 horse engine for 160 bucks!
Check your engine shaft diameter. I think it is 7/8" . =A0That 6.5 hp at
harbor Freight has a 3/4.
Ok, cut me a little slack, like I said this is my first rebuild. I was
very careful in everythign I did, I bought a manual, I cleaned
everythign meticulously. And I was tryign to be nice when I said "I
dont think this has a compression release". I am rewording that now
to, "This does not have a compression release."
I was careful to hone and try to get an appropriate cross hatch
pattern. I cleaned the points, gapped to .020. Bought a new plug with
the numbers in the manual. Gapped to .030. Brought piston to TDS on
the compression stroke and backed down then back up to reach .080 to
BTDC. Then using a continuity meter rotated the stator plate untill
the points just gap.
My mistake and part of the my learnign process was my lack of
knowledge about valves. I assumed, because last year it ran well that
they were ok. Upon asking all my "questions" I learned I should have
checked the gap between the lifter and top of the valve stem. So, I am
going to take the engine off this weekend and the head off, rotate
again to TDC with a dial indicator and check gap. (After first lapping
the valves after buying a valve lapper and compound).
Guys I am just tryign to learn here. This is a hobby of mine I want to
get better at.
1. Can anyone tell me if this is a compression problem why it will
run, just not start well?
2. If the valves are off spec, how much compression can I gain by
fixing that?
3. Can anyone tell me if I should try to re-install a expander behind
the 2nd compression ring while I have it off? The manual is not clear
that I remember and just said somethign about "using them if called
for"
Here is an online copy of my manual if anyone sees anythign I missed:
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
Thanks you to all that have helped!
Since you are going to lap the valves I have a suggestion. Instead of
buying a valve lapping tool just clean the valve heads well and super
glue the heads together. Apply grinding compound to one valve face and
insert into the engine. Now rotate the valve stem sticking up between
the palms of your hands back and forth while exerting a little downn
pressure. You wil need to lift the valve up a little no and then to
let the grinding compound get between the valve and seat. Try the fine
compound first and see if it's enough. You just want to seat the
valves, not change the valve grind angles. The ground area will be
visible as a mat finish. Tapping the valves on a hard surface will
usually break the glue bond. Heat (don't breath the fumes!) will also
cause the super glue to let go.
ERS