On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:47:02 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Jan 13, 12:18Â*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 06:02:19 -0800 (PST), stryped





wrote:
On Jan 12, 9:39Â*pm, "Greg O" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...

Oh, I dont think mine had compression release and I left the valves as
is. (Other than cleaning the tops of them.). Also have a new head
gasket.

Pretty much all small engines have some sort of compression release. Some as
odd ball as a slight ramp machined in the exhaust lobe that always pops the
exhaust valve slightly, (seems not to bother at higher RPM), to a actual
mechanical release that drops out when the engine comes up to idle speed.
Greg

I am now getting 55-60 psi with a fully charged battery. I did
nothing to the valves, assuming that they were ok because it ran fine
until the rod broke last summer. I guess I need to check valve
clearance. I poured some oil down the spark plug hole and it seemed
to increase compression about 5-7 or so psi. Does this mean bore is
worn? Is there anythign I can do if that is the case other than
reboreing? It does not smoke when I can get it to run. Wouldnt it
smoke if the bore was the culprit?

One thing, when re-ringing I did not use the expander behind the 2nd
compression ring. I did this for two reasons, 1. There were no
expanders on the rings I took off the piston when I disassembled it.
2. I tired to put the expander on and soemthign did not feel right.
It was hard to get into the bore even with a ring compressor. Shoudl
I try to install this ring?

I did hone out the cylinder with a rigid hone. Maybe I went too far?
I was careful and slow with it.

Also, I mixed up the lifters as they fell out before I could figure
out which one went with which lifter. They have no itendifiable
marking on them.

By the way I did switch direction on that pancake filter and it did
not change much.

Last night I fooled with it some more. It seems once I get it running,
it will run. But if it dies or I kill it, it takes endless cranking
and playing with throttle/choke to get it started, even when warm.

Also, when it died, I tried spray startign fluid in it to restart it.
It had no effect on helping it start.

At the end of the night, gas started leakign from somewhere on the
carb and disgusted I took of the line and went in for the night.

As far as the compression realease, My manual covers other models that
have a contraption on the cam, mine did not have this.

I appreciate your help. This is my first rebuild and I want it to be
a sucess but I am tempted to go down to the harbor freight store and
buy that 6 horse engine for 160 bucks!

My guess is your carb is bad and you are flooding the engine when
starting - quick-start will not start a flooded low compression
engine. The compression you are getting is not the problem - 99.99%
sure.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks. But why would it be hard to start when the engien sits
overnight? Wouldnt there be exhaust smoke if it were flooded?

Why do you think this engine has such low compression after rebuild?
First of all, you did NOT rebuild the engine. You replaced the rings.
You do not know if the valves are sealing properly. You don't know if
they are adjusted right, You don't know if it has a compression
release.
To properly test compression the engine needs to make at least 4 full
turns at sufficient speed with the choke and throttle BOTH wide open.

If you use the pull starter, does it give a definite jerk as it goes
over-center? If so, the compression is LIKELY OK.