Keep in mind that flooring is not a straight toungue and groove operation.
when cutting the tongues, the bottom is undercut by about 1/32" to allow
gap-free closure on the exposed face. this applies to both the long and end
grain. you also better be sure you can get good, square routing on that
hard end grain or you'll have gaps where the end grain meets. It doesn't
take much at all to cause this gap. Also, I'm guessing the boards aren't
going to be perfectly flat. you need to come up with a way during your
milling operation to keep them dead flat against your table (be it router or
TS). you could wind up paying extra when you use a contractor to come back
and sand the floors flat prior to staining / finishing. *Especially* if he
has to sand it on the 45 prior to sanding with the grain due to lips from
the milling operation. I've seen this happen. It's tough to save money
going this route.

I've put down reclaimed wood flooring *once* that had the ends re-milled
after being reclaimed. When I die, I will still be able to say that I've
done that type of job ONCE.

If you go this route, go into it very well researched and educated or you
may find yourself in over your head.

Best of luck to you


"Wes" wrote in message
...
I have some ~1" hard maple that has been stacked in my shop for 8 or more
years. I need to
use it. I was thinking of converting it into flooring for my rather small
home.

I'm thinking straight planks would not be a good idea so tounge and groove
would be the
way to go. Am I thinking right?

The next question is how wide to make each board? Is there an upper limit
other than
eliminating waste?

The last question is after planing, do I use a router table or a table saw
and dado for
grooves?

I welcome advice,

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller