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Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr. Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr. is offline
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Default Suggestions for red oak finish

All,

The second coat of sealer is done and overall appearance is very nice, IMO.

Have now noticed the presence of some very fine scratches and a slight discontinuity in
the shellac coat - not a run, but a noticeably slight difference in thickness.

Will the lacquer (planning on 3 coats) either melt into the sealer or build up enough so
these indications will not show?

Certainly understand that without putting eyes on this replies are based solely on
experience.

I am thinking the lacquer may melt into the sealer and provide sufficient film build to
provide a suitably smooth surface finish.

Want to do the best I can, without being too overly meticulous about minute anomalies.

Thanks to all again for the expert guidance - best wishes to all for a healthy, happy, and
prosperous New Year!

Regards,

Doug


" wrote:

On Dec 28, 11:52*pm, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:

The shellac is by Zinsser and is 3 lb cut - so must thin to get to a 2 lb cut as suggested
by Otoe.


Douglas - careful here. The Zinseer 3# cut if for finishing.
Although I have not actually had any tragedies using this for a
sealer, it is best to get the yellow can of Zinseer marked "sanding
sealer". This is the correct viscosity and "cut" for your
application. Also, it is dewaxed shellac, as opposed to the 3# cut
(that isn't) which helps ensure adhesion.

You mention letting the shellac coats sit for several days - although the can says re-coat
in an hour. *Rather imagine that is the VOE speaking i.e., Voice of Experience.


You can actually sand and recoat when the shellac will easily sand
giving off only a fine white powder. This really depends on your
application method as well as your weather conditions. If you spray,
your coats will probably dry quite fast and you can sand in a
relatively short time.

When I spray shellac sealer, I can easily sand within 45 minutes on a
warm, clear day. Even though the finish powders up nicely under the
paper before then, it is still soft enough to leave unnecessary tiny
scratches. If I can, I wait an hour or so just to be sure I have the
hardness I want.

When it is cool, humid/drizzly, and I have to brush or pad, I usually
wait at least a couple of hours before sanding.

If I brush the shellac, I put a lot more on as it is harder to handle
than just whistling by with a gun. So in bad conditions and a brush
applied s

But remember, the more coats on the surface and the thicker finish you
apply from multiple coats means more drying time between sanding/
coats.

You cannot screw up by waiting for shellac or lacquer to dry
properly. You can screw up by getting on with your processes too
early. Take your time - good finishing requires patience.

If you go with the lacquer as a final finish, there is no need to sand
between coats. I NEVER do unless I have screwed something up. If you
sand between the coats you will leave debris on your project surface,
and in nooks and crannies where you cannot get it all out. This
sanding dust and bits off your paper will however find a way to be
prominently displayed in your final finish coat.

With resolvating finishes, sanding between coats simply isn't
necessary unless you are removing a run, bad brush stroke, or getting
out some dust nibs.

Will report back when done - or have gone astray.


Post away!

Robert