All,

Again - many thanks for the valuable advice.

Purchased the SealCoat product and applied the first coat.

We had unusually low humidity (for Houston at least) and temps in the low 70's yesterday -
and as Mark and Larry commented, the first pass was very tacky before finishing the second
pass - may not be the best choice of words - the piece is approx. 8" wide and 17" long
which is in the direction of the grain - so a pass covered about half the width.

Two obviously neophyte questions:

1. Presume that after applying the product it should be worked into the surface
and the excess is rubbed off. Is this correct?

2. There are several small patches that have a faint whitish appearance - and the
surface is smooth to the touch.

Per Robert's recommendation - do not plan to sand and will apply two coats of
SealCoat.

Are these white patches normal? Will they disappear once the lacquer top coat is
applied?


Thanks again everyone!

Regards,

Doug



" wrote:

On Dec 28, 11:52*pm, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:

The shellac is by Zinsser and is 3 lb cut - so must thin to get to a 2 lb cut as suggested
by Otoe.

Douglas - careful here. The Zinseer 3# cut if for finishing.
Although I have not actually had any tragedies using this for a
sealer, it is best to get the yellow can of Zinseer marked "sanding
sealer". This is the correct viscosity and "cut" for your
application. Also, it is dewaxed shellac, as opposed to the 3# cut
(that isn't) which helps ensure adhesion.

You mention letting the shellac coats sit for several days - although the can says re-coat
in an hour. *Rather imagine that is the VOE speaking i.e., Voice of Experience.

You can actually sand and recoat when the shellac will easily sand
giving off only a fine white powder. This really depends on your
application method as well as your weather conditions. If you spray,
your coats will probably dry quite fast and you can sand in a
relatively short time.

When I spray shellac sealer, I can easily sand within 45 minutes on a
warm, clear day. Even though the finish powders up nicely under the
paper before then, it is still soft enough to leave unnecessary tiny
scratches. If I can, I wait an hour or so just to be sure I have the
hardness I want.

When it is cool, humid/drizzly, and I have to brush or pad, I usually
wait at least a couple of hours before sanding.

If I brush the shellac, I put a lot more on as it is harder to handle
than just whistling by with a gun. So in bad conditions and a brush
applied s

But remember, the more coats on the surface and the thicker finish you
apply from multiple coats means more drying time between sanding/
coats.

You cannot screw up by waiting for shellac or lacquer to dry
properly. You can screw up by getting on with your processes too
early. Take your time - good finishing requires patience.

If you go with the lacquer as a final finish, there is no need to sand
between coats. I NEVER do unless I have screwed something up. If you
sand between the coats you will leave debris on your project surface,
and in nooks and crannies where you cannot get it all out. This
sanding dust and bits off your paper will however find a way to be
prominently displayed in your final finish coat.

With resolvating finishes, sanding between coats simply isn't
necessary unless you are removing a run, bad brush stroke, or getting
out some dust nibs.

Will report back when done - or have gone astray.

Post away!

Robert