Buerste wrote:
I need an air staple gun to shoot an 18ga., 1/4" crown, by 1/2" length.
But, the driver has to protrude 1/2" past the end of the nose. Of course,
there's nothing like that available, nor is there a long nose gun that I
could just shorten the nose by 1/2" available. I need at least 1-3/8"
finished nose length to get clearance.

We need to repair single bad tufts in flat wire brushes. When the machine,
operator, wire or other thing screws up and makes a bad tuft, we repair the
tuft rather than scrap the brush. Years ago, I modified a BeA staple gun
very easily by shortening the piston, and lengthening the nose and the
driver. The BeA is now obsolete (of course!) and trigger parts and
bi-material pistons are nowhere to be found ANYWHERE! My staple gun guy
sells me $1k/week of ballistic screws and is motivated, knowledgeable and I
trust his scrounging ability. The BeA was his idea years ago and he gave me
the gun and all the parts over the years. I trust him enough to not even
bother looking for parts myself. The new BeA that replaces mine uses a disk
piston, the cylinder is part of the casting and is a very bad choice to
modify.

So, his latest idea is use a Senco gun and make a longer cylinder, a spacer
between the body casting and the rear cap to accommodate the longer
cylinder, a longer driver and longer nose pieces. With this strategy, we
can make any length nose and any length over-stroke. And, Senco should be
supplying parts for many years.

An ideal project that won't take too long, demand some precision, won't cost
very much and have immediate pay-back. I've got about 25 barrels of repairs
to do. And, since I'm making ONE, I'm going to make TWO or THREE for very
little more time and money!



Why not an electric unit? Simple single trip solenoid and make whatever
you want for a nose assembly. The electric unit I have will shoot a 1.5
inch staple into oak with no problem.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York