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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default Soldering in a brass ball valve.

On Nov 20, 10:51*am, wrote:
On Thu, 20 Nov 2008 10:40:29 -0500, Phisherman
wrote:

I need to tap in on the main water supply lines for a new bathroom and
decided to install two brass ball valves (leading to the new bathroom)
to make appliance installations easier. * My 3/4" ball valves are
r858 150 WSP 600 WOG made by Mueller Industries B&K. *My question is
about the inner parts that may be damaged by a propane torch. * *I've
seen plumbers who do not remove the inner parts of a ball valve, but
I've read somewhere that the stem should be removed before soldering
to prevent any heat damage.


Make sure there is no moisture in the pipes, and use a MAPP torch,
which burns a bit hotter than a propane torch. You don't need to
remove anything, just don't heat it longer than needed to flow solder
in the joints. If the pipes are dry, that will not be a problem.

ps. Don't try using a MAPP gas cylinder on a propane torch that was
not designed for the higher temps of MAPP.


I'll agree on the MAPP gas suggestion, but I'll ask this question:

If this type of plumbing is a one-off project and you really won't
need a MAPP-rated torch, is it cost effective to purchase a tool that
may never get used again as opposed to removing a couple of stems and
not having to worry about damaging them?

This goes double if you aren't as comfortable sweating the fittings as
a professional might be. A few extra minutes of work for the peace of
mind of knowing you won't damage the fittings might be worth it.