Boden wrote:
E Z Peaces wrote:
Geek Dad wrote:

On Nov 18, 11:23 am, "Bob F" wrote:

"Geek Dad" wrote in message

...






It's an A.O. Smith 40 gallon gas water heater.
We can get it replaced, no worries financially. Bradford White, $800
installed.
I just want to know how can you tell how long it will continue to
last?
The HVAC guys that replaced our central air/heating system said we
should consider getting it replaced. Our plumber agreed.
Of course, being Mr. Cynical that I am, they probably need the
business.
Our basement is finished, so we can't really let it go for too long.
So there's that too.
Our realtor says those things can last for a long time. Apparently
longer than 14 years.
So she says one thing, the guys that get paid installing these things
say another.
My wife is now worried that it will go any minute. I try to tell her
to remain calm and tell her that's exactly what the HVAC and plumber
want her to be - paranoid.
Just get 'er done?

Replace the anode and it may last for many years.

The water where you are makes a big difference.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


The anode? What does that do and who can repair that - plumber?

Water: we live in SouthEastern Pennsylvania, does that help?


An anode is a metal road that extends into the water from the top of
the tank. It can keep the inside of the tank from rusting. On some
tanks they are easy for a homeowner to replace. It probably needs a
good electrical bond to the tank. I don't know if that precludes
using teflon tape to prevent leaks.

If I contemplated replacing an anode, I'd want to know if it was
likely to be needed for people on my water system, how difficult the
job would be with my tank, and what was the best way to seal the joint.

When I replaced a water heater on a wood floor, I put it in a plastic
tub two inches deep. That way I was able to notice leaks before the
floor got wet. It also keeps the floor dry during maintenance and
repair procedures. I don't know if putting your tank into a shallow
tub would be too much trouble.

An anode is a sacrificial metal element, usually a rod or chain that is
made of a metal that is electrochemically more active than the water
heater tank (aluminum or magnesium alloys). The anode corrodes instead
of the water heater tank. The rod must connect electrically to the tank
so Teflon tape is not a good idea.

Most often the initial failure is a slow leak, not a violent rupture so
placing the water heater in a shallow pan, even if it isn't connected to
a drain is adequate if you also put a leak detector which is connected
to an alarm in the pan.

Rod anodes are difficult to remove or install unless you have high
ceilings. Chain anodes are best for replacements.

Boden

I've read that if there's not enough head room, you can bend an anode as
you withdraw it.

How about flushing a couple of gallons from the bottom every year or so?
It would remove sediment. Wouldn't increased rust be a warning to
replace the anode?

The water heater with the pan is in a utility room with lots of traffic.
The leaks I detected with it were at the threaded and soldered
connections at the top of the tank. Because of evaporation, it might
have taken months for the tub to overflow from the drippy leaks.
Without the tub I would have had damage to the wood before I noticed.

I don't remember any catastrophic leaks where I have lived. Maybe it's
because water pressure has been about 40 PSI. Online, I've found that
some water systems specify 80 PSI while others require regulators if
it's above 50.

I wonder if keeping pressure down to 40 or 50 would extend the life of
plumbing and make catastrophic leaks less likely.