Tim S wrote:

Now all I have to do is find a CORGI person who doesn't want 1200 quid
(labour) to install and commission a boiler (just the boiler, I'll be
doing the rest).

Oddly enough, I'd budgeted 400 for the install (expecting 400-600).

Sounds more reasonable i you are doing all the leg work... having said
that, if they are turning work away then there is no reason for them to
take the lower paying jobs.


I haven't had time to do an in-depth on what I need to do (I really expected
to contract this one out), so can I run this by you?

Sure...

Major things I need to consider:

a) Manometer and spray for leak testing pipe/joints as per FAQ;

Yup

Pressure drop test before you start - saves hours trying to figure out
where a leak is that you did not create in the first place. Do a let-by
test when do for completeness.

b) Pipe sizing - well it's 22mm gas pipe all the way, for the same length of
run as the current boiler, so that should be fine.

Yup.

(12m of 22 was the limit (only needed 6) for my 35kW boiler IIRC... with
less power you can have a longer run obviously).

c) Dynamic gas pressure test at the boiler.

Yup

d) Flue suitable distance from opening windows,doors etc - I know this is
OK. Plus mesh guard as flue is 1.7m off the ground.

Yup

e) Check flue gases with hired meter (burner is factory set, so I'm not sure
if this is strictly necessary?)

The makers instructions will probably claim not - they did on mine.
Although IIRC, Andy G has posted here in the past about discovering how
far from optimal the factory presets can be.

f) Test for flue gas leakages? (I assume go sniffing around with a
detector???). Or do we assume the flue is good if we assemble it correctly?

With a basic "out the top and through the wall" flue it would be hard to
get it wrong as long as you fit the gasket and do up the screws etc.


All sounds ok. Obviously follow the instructions for commissioning.


--
Cheers,

John.

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