On Nov 1, 7:50*am, wrote:
I did this, more air than I have ever seen in a radiator came out,
both radiators working. Thanks very much to you, you just saved me an
engineer callout.





May have a complete airlock.

Try turning off all rads completely except one upstairs, and running
pump flat out.

That may be enough to push air out of pipes into rads where it can be bled.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

After air is out water level is lower you may need to add water but
maybe not, reblead radiators, all of them. You should have all water
when boiler is cold at room temp and off, forget the pressure gauge
for whats needed, I am supposed to have 30ft or 30 lb to go 30ft up
but I need 15lb, [im US] and its accurate. When boiler is room temp-
cold see if water or air comes out, if nothing turn on boiler and
quickly go to highest radiator and bleed again, then bleed all of
them, if there is air pressure is likely low. If water is low heat-
water will not stay in highest radiator, so maybe you are low on water
but only fill a COLD boiler and do it at 15 second fills and recheck
highest radiator later. To much water is harder on a boilers pressure
and life, to little and top floor gets no heat. Constantly needing to
fill means a leak somewhere. Eventualy you will know what pressure is
correct. For uneven heat lower Aquastat temp so pump runs more and
boiler runs at lower temp. What is Aquastat set at. Most condensing
units reach full efficency at near 110f and loose 5% near 150f. Yea
here we drive on the other side of the road, use Farenhite, don`t
mandate condensing heating or anything that saves energy and it goes
to -30f+. Here nobody uses tankless WH and CFLs most dont use.