"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Oct 6, 5:53 pm, TimR wrote:
I admit, I don't know much about the insides of these things.

Have a compression test performed on the engine. An exhaust valve
stuck open would leak un-burnt fuel out the exhaust.

Pass that test, first.

While the exhaust valve stuck open makes sense for the unburnt fuel to
come out, does it also make sense that I'm pulling the cord against an
all but locked engine? I can pull it slowly, as if compression is
leaking down. Seems reasonable that if either valve were open I
should be able to spin it easily.

I have taken one apart, but it was years ago, and at my age memory is
unreliable. That one wouldn't start, but pulled easily, and when I
got it open I found the circular piece that connects the bottom of the
piston to the crankshaft had broken in pieces. I've also rebuilt
several automotive carburetors, but they were even more decades ago.

A stuck carburetor float would account for the extra gas - would it
also account for the heavy resistance? If so, it's worth taking apart
to see. But if there are two separate things broken it's probably not
worth the effort.

A stuck valve wouldnt put in enough gas to squirt out, hard pulling
indicated the cilinder and oil have gasolene in them, it happened to a
friend we removed the plug and gas squirted out 15ft, look into
thecarb issue first see if oil has gas in it


Along with all the good advice you have been given, be very careful of fire.
Excess gasoline and sparks from the ignition should not be allowed together.
Even the fumes can ignite from a loose spark plug cable or removed spark
plug.

It does sound like your cylinder is full of gas and there is very likely gas
in the oil. The engine should rotate freely with the spark plug out and the
blade brake released by pulling the stop lever against the handle.

Don Young