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z wrote:


I've used eu2000s for a lot of years. I've had failures after 3-4
years
of around 6 - 10 hours a day use. And then it was usually just the
timing belt which you can fix. We used the crap out of them and

My timing belt just crapped out because of a stuck intake valve, where
can I get a new belt and can you explain how to time it?

Thanks



I'll give it a shot. Here is the part

The Belt:

PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Mfg Product Number: 14400-Z0D-003
Description: BELT (61YU7 G-200) for Honda
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $11.10
Total Cost: $11.10


Oil Splasher
PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Mfg Product Number: 16512-ZL8-000
Description: HOLDER for Honda
Order Quantity: 3
Unit Price: $1.86
Total Cost: $5.58


Its always a good idea (thanks Ullyses) to change out the plastic oil
splasher while you are in there. Its only six bucks or so. As they get
older they tend to get brittle and its easy to change once you've got
everything apart.

I ordered from http://www.hondapeninsula.com/

Even with shipping it runs cheaper than my local honda dealer who wanted
like 18 bucks for the belt. Anyway you just plug the part no in -- or
shop around as you like -- either way.

You'll also need some liquid gasket gunk. I use the stuff made by honda
'Hondabond HT, but probably any quality stuff would work.

So you gotta drain the oil, pull all the plastic, pull the carb, pull the
exhaust, pull the valve cover and then pull the crank case. Its kind of
a pain.

Give it a good clean out etc, replace the oil splasher. This might be a
good time to test the low oil sensor -- i had one go bad just after I put
everything backtogether.. sucked. You just hook a test light up to it
and submerge it in oil. takes a few mins

Also I would recommend replacing the seal on the oil sensor as that is prone
to failure. Not as bad as a stuck oil switch but still not fun.



So I've found its easiest to pull the pin on the timing gear (just with a
plyers or whatnot) and set the belt up with the timing gear kind of
hanging lose. Then you rotate the crank till you see a little square
indentation on the crank and a notch. Line that up so its virtical (i
think there might be another mark you can match with).. anyway its
supposed to be at the top as you look at it. The timing gear itself has
a horizontal line that should match up with the case. When you see it
you'll know what I'm talking about. They made it pretty easy. That
should be TDC.

I'm probably just not understanding your explanation but on mine there were
two raised marks (lines) on the cam gear. They should line up horizontally
with the top of the cylinder head _ _ If they look like those two
line just to the left of this you should be at TDC.


Then you can pull up the timing gear and slip the pin back in .. then you
are good to go. Clean the case and goo it up

Just use your aluminum fingers putting those bolts back in.. they'll
strip easy if you get too aggressive with them.

They say you are supposed to change all the gaskets (exaust, carb etc)
when you do this but i'm too cheap and so far so good on using the old
ones. Just be careful and don't break em

good luck.


-zachary

PS: i've had the timing a bit off before after a rebuild. Once the belt
is on you can pull that gear pin and set the gear a few teeth one way or
the other after you reassemble -- once the belt is on you won't have to
take the crank case off or even all the plastic again if you think it
needs a little adjustment after you are done. Thank gowd for that man ..
the plastic etc is a pain in the ass to keep taking off all the time.