"dave" wrote in message
...
looking to heat up a pretty big chunk of steel, preferably near (or maybe
even "at") red. my oxi-acet gas bottles are near empty. rather do it
electrically than get the bottles filled. I have an old miller dialarc HF
welder. what to use for the 'electrode' (heating rod, really)? I'm hoping
for "minimal if any metal transfer" in the process...

how about just a piece of quarter-inch diameter round cold-rolled? was
also thinking about maybe just a bare tig tunsten held in the stinger,
using AC "cranked up high" - anybody ever tried that?

sidenote: my old dialarc, recently aquired, is "known to function well"
(my tests, with rods) on all its' AC and DC settings, but I haven't yet
ever tried any of the TIG functions. it was an ebay buy

"offloading the dialarc singlehandedly" site:
http://machines.freehostia.com/diala...ng/index3.html

thanks for insights and brain flash ideas, guys,

Carbon arc torches are neat, but put out a lot of UV, AND you have to be
aware of the duty cycle at a given amperage -- usually max 20%.

The Lincoln 225's were especially suited for carbon arcs, because at the 75
amp setting, they had a 100% duty cycle, used for resistive type heating on
farms during frost, etc.

BBQ'g the piece is a very good idea, as preheating *always* helps welding.

But, if the material is thick enough or big enough, even a carbon arc torch
might be spotty, and the best way is to use "rosebud tips" with O/A.
They put out *boucou* heat, way more than any O/A welding tip or cutting
torch.
Not recommended with B-tanks, however, and some advise flashback arrestors
in both lines of the torch handle. Not that expensive, either the rosebuds
or the arrestors.
You certainly will need to fill yer tanks for a rosebud!

There's also an ice-melting/asphalt melting torch that works with propane,
iirc.

That's one big-assed welder you got! Be inneresting to know if you were
able to fix the oomph problem.

--
DT




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