Well, I ended up doing both ideas.

At the top end, I had broken the damaged pipe out up to the point of the
remaining hub that was still leaded to the incoming pipe from above that.
When I looked inside, the pipe coming down into the leaded hub was damaged,
so I left the hub in place. I'll look for a rubber adapter that goes over
the hub and will also connect to the PVC that I will be attaching from
below. I found that type of adapter at an ACE hardware store near me.

On the bottom end, I rented a soil pipe cutter and I used that to cut off
the pipe leaving about a 4-inch piece that I will connect up to the new PVC
with a rubber connector.

The soil pipe cutter was so-o-o cool! It worked like a charm. Since the
part of the pipe leading up to where I did the cut was damaged, there was a
chance that the whole thing would break, but I lucked out and the cutoff
worked perfectly.

Thanks all for your help!
..
"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Sep 28, 1:30 pm, HerHusband wrote:
On Sep 27, 1:49 pm, RicodJour wrote:

If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have
straight pipe on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.

What's the benefit to cutting the hub away?

Just a supply issue. If you can find the coupling to adapt PVC to a cast
iron hub, great. I've never seen any of those locally, but standard
Fernco's are easy to find. Unless the hub is part of a cast iron Tee or
something, I see no value in keeping it. Cut back to straight pipe and use
a common fitting.

I agree that does make more sense since the OP hasn't busted out the
lead joint yet. I was under the impression he'd removed it clean to
the hub and could simply use a donut. The donuts are standard issue,
and any chain hardware store will give you the online price delivered
to a local store if that works better for you.

R