I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron sewer
line. The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet long. The
top of the cast iron above the connection is already supported so it can't
drop down when I take out the bad section.

What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of cast
iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast iron at the
top, and a clean female end of the cast iron at the bottom. To connect the
PVC to the cast iron at the top, I plan on using a rubber connector.

My question is about the bottom part. I would like to insert the PVC into
the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that connection
with something. I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection, and
it is not under pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting
leaking. Is there some sealant or product that will work for this?

Is the alternative to look for a rubber fitting for the bottom that is big
enough on one end to go over the extra large cast iron female fitting and
regular 4" size on the other end for the PVC male end?

On Sep 27, 11:23*am, "alta47" wrote:
I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron sewer
line. *The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet long. *The
top of the cast iron above the connection is already supported so it can't
drop down when I take out the bad section.

What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of cast
iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast iron at the
top, and a clean female end of the cast iron at the bottom. *To connect the
PVC to the cast iron at the top, I plan on using a rubber connector.

My question is about the bottom part. *I would like to insert the PVC into
the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that connection
with something. * I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection, and
it is not under pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting
leaking. *Is there some sealant or product that will work for this?

Is the alternative to look for a rubber fitting for the bottom that is big
enough on one end to go over the extra large cast iron female fitting and
regular 4" size on the other end for the PVC male end?

http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?...emNumber=43544

R

I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron
sewer line. The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet
long. The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.
What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of
cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast
iron at the top

I recently replaced cast iron pipes at my in-laws with PVC. I used a metal
cut-off wheel in my 4" angle grinder and it was quick and easy to make
clean cuts. Then I used a rubber "Fernco" style of coupling to connect the
new PVC to the existing cast iron.

In my case, the cast iron was 4" and the new PVC was 3", so I slid a long
length of PVC down the inside of the cast iron and used a reducing fernco
coupling. It worked great.

My question is about the bottom part. I would like to insert the PVC
into the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that
connection with something.

If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have straight pipe
on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.

I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection, and it is not
under pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting leaking.

Until you get a plugged sewer drain, or it otherwise backs up. Then that
connection would easily let waste flow out.

Is there some sealant or product that will work for this?

I think there are rubber fittings for adapting to female fittings, but I
haven't seen them locally. You would probably have to check with a plumbing
supply.

Good luck,

Anthony

wrote:
On Sep 27, 12:37�pm, HerHusband wrote:
....

... The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.
....

be sure to support the cast iron above before removing the section to
be replace.
....

Read _BEFORE_ posting, maybe????

--

On Sep 27, 12:37�pm, HerHusband wrote:
I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron
sewer line. �The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet
long. �The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.
What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of
cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast
iron at the top

I recently replaced cast iron pipes at my in-laws with PVC. I used a metal
cut-off wheel in my 4" angle grinder and it was quick and easy to make
clean cuts. Then I used a rubber "Fernco" style of coupling to connect the
new PVC to the existing cast iron.

In my case, the cast iron was 4" and the new PVC was 3", so I slid a long
length of PVC down the inside of the cast iron and used a reducing fernco
coupling. It worked great.

My question is about the bottom part. �I would like to insert the PVC
into the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that
connection with something.

If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have straight pipe
on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.

I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection, and it is not
under pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting leaking..

Until you get a plugged sewer drain, or it otherwise backs up. Then that
connection would easily let waste flow out.

Is there some sealant or product that will work for this?

I think there are rubber fittings for adapting to female fittings, but I
haven't seen them locally. You would probably have to check with a plumbing
supply.

Good luck,

Anthony

be sure to support the cast iron above before removing the section to
be replace.

or the entire line may move, causing a rroof leak, cast iron is very
heavy

On Sep 27, 12:37*pm, HerHusband wrote:
I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron
sewer line. *The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet
long. *The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.
What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of
cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast
iron at the top

I recently replaced cast iron pipes at my in-laws with PVC. I used a metal
cut-off wheel in my 4" angle grinder and it was quick and easy to make
clean cuts. Then I used a rubber "Fernco" style of coupling to connect the
new PVC to the existing cast iron.

In my case, the cast iron was 4" and the new PVC was 3", so I slid a long
length of PVC down the inside of the cast iron and used a reducing fernco
coupling. It worked great.

My question is about the bottom part. *I would like to insert the PVC
into the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that
connection with something.

If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have straight pipe
on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.

What's the benefit to cutting the hub away? It takes more time,
presents risks that needn't be there, and the hub isn't creating a
problem.

R

On Sep 27, 1:42�pm, dpb wrote:
wrote:
On Sep 27, 12:37 pm, HerHusband wrote:

...

... The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.

...

be sure to support the cast iron above before removing the section to
be replace.

...

Read _BEFORE_ posting, maybe???? �

--

might be a proper clamp, on the other hand it might be a small strap.
people underestimate the weight of cast iron.

a buddy of mine did, he cut out a 3 foot piece that had cracked. the
line had a strap holdinmg it in the wall...... well the line did stay
in the wall, but it dropped 3 feet, left a big hole in roof, during a
big rain storm. my buddy did roof damage trying to patch the hole. and
fell off the roof. fortunately it was one story.

his wife had to hire a plumber to replace the line, get a new roof,
the shingles were old anyway, my friend broke some bones and was off
work for 3 months. his wife took the repair money out of his
retirement account. she only half joked it should of been a 3 story
homer, for the life insurance money........

he was bad news, and moved away after getting divorced.........

kinda dumb guy but I felt bad for him.

better to warn the OP.

cast iron lines were built from ground up, last section dropped thru
roof......

most clamps were just sraps keeping lines upright so they couldnt fall
out of wall cavity during construction. no need to support the weight

wrote:
....
a buddy of mine did, he cut out a 3 foot piece that had cracked. the
line had a strap holdinmg it in the wall...... well the line did stay
in the wall, but it dropped 3 feet, ...

You've got the best stories for _everything_ I've ever heard, haller;
I'll give you that...

My question would be if it had that much weight sitting on the section,
how did he manage to get it out?

--

Thanks all. The job is getting to be bigger than I planned so I may end up
just having a plumber do it. It's in a property that I just bought (it was
a bank-owned foreclosure) and now that I am working on it, I am finding that
a little more of the sewer line is cracked than I originally thought. The
pipe is easily accessible and breaking it away has been easy. But the
leaded part of cast iron fittings aren't coming off too easily, and I am
concerned that I may end up cracking the remaining good sections while
trying to remove them.

Does anyone know if plumbers are able to heat the lead fittings enough with
a torch to melt the lead and take them apart that way? If that's what they
do, I may be better off just having them do that. That would prevent damage
to the rest of the sewer line.

Thanks.

P.S. The stack above is supported very well, so I don't have to worry about
it dropping down. There is a L-turn above the top of the basement
foundation wall, and the L is supported directly on top of the wall. So,
there is no way for it to drop down.



"alta47" wrote in message
. ..
I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron sewer
line. The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet long. The
top of the cast iron above the connection is already supported so it can't
drop down when I take out the bad section.

What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of
cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast iron
at the top, and a clean female end of the cast iron at the bottom. To
connect the PVC to the cast iron at the top, I plan on using a rubber
connector.

My question is about the bottom part. I would like to insert the PVC into
the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that connection
with something. I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection,
and it is not under pressure, this should be able to work without the
fitting leaking. Is there some sealant or product that will work for
this?

Is the alternative to look for a rubber fitting for the bottom that is big
enough on one end to go over the extra large cast iron female fitting and
regular 4" size on the other end for the PVC male end?

You can use a fernco at that end also. They make them just for that
application.

s


"alta47" wrote in message
. ..
I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron sewer
line. The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet long. The
top of the cast iron above the connection is already supported so it can't
drop down when I take out the bad section.

What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of
cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast iron
at the top, and a clean female end of the cast iron at the bottom. To
connect the PVC to the cast iron at the top, I plan on using a rubber
connector.

My question is about the bottom part. I would like to insert the PVC into
the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and then seal that connection
with something. I am thinking that since it is a vertical connection,
and it is not under pressure, this should be able to work without the
fitting leaking. Is there some sealant or product that will work for
this?

Is the alternative to look for a rubber fitting for the bottom that is big
enough on one end to go over the extra large cast iron female fitting and
regular 4" size on the other end for the PVC male end?

copy and paste from OP. did you see this?:::::

The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section

================


wrote in message
...
On Sep 27, 12:37?pm, HerHusband wrote:
I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast iron
sewer line. ?The section to be replaced is a little less than 4 feet
long. ?The top of the cast iron above the connection is already
supported so it can't drop down when I take out the bad section.
What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked section of
cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male end of the cast
iron at the top



be sure to support the cast iron above before removing the section to
be replace.

or the entire line may move, causing a rroof leak, cast iron is very
heavy

It is often impossible to melt the lead out of the joint depending
on configuration, and you will find a drill bit and chisel will
make short work of removing the lead ring. With some of today's
blades or a good chain wrench, it is easier to snap off the hub
and use a "no hub" clamp.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"alta47" wrote in message
. ..
Thanks all. The job is getting to be bigger than I planned so I
may end up just having a plumber do it. It's in a property that
I just bought (it was a bank-owned foreclosure) and now that I
am working on it, I am finding that a little more of the sewer
line is cracked than I originally thought. The pipe is easily
accessible and breaking it away has been easy. But the leaded
part of cast iron fittings aren't coming off too easily, and I
am concerned that I may end up cracking the remaining good
sections while trying to remove them.

Does anyone know if plumbers are able to heat the lead fittings
enough with a torch to melt the lead and take them apart that
way? If that's what they do, I may be better off just having
them do that. That would prevent damage to the rest of the
sewer line.

Thanks.

P.S. The stack above is supported very well, so I don't have to
worry about it dropping down. There is a L-turn above the top
of the basement foundation wall, and the L is supported directly
on top of the wall. So, there is no way for it to drop down.



"alta47" wrote in message
. ..
I need to replace a short vertical section of cracked 4" cast
iron sewer line. The section to be replaced is a little less
than 4 feet long. The top of the cast iron above the connection
is already supported so it can't drop down when I take out the
bad section.

What I am thinking of doing is breaking out the bad/cracked
section of cast iron, and hopefully ending up with a clean male
end of the cast iron at the top, and a clean female end of the
cast iron at the bottom. To connect the PVC to the cast iron
at the top, I plan on using a rubber connector.

My question is about the bottom part. I would like to insert
the PVC into the female cast iron fitting at the bottom and
then seal that connection with something. I am thinking that
since it is a vertical connection, and it is not under
pressure, this should be able to work without the fitting
leaking. Is there some sealant or product that will work for
this?

Is the alternative to look for a rubber fitting for the bottom
that is big enough on one end to go over the extra large cast
iron female fitting and regular 4" size on the other end for
the PVC male end?

If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have
straight pipe on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.

What's the benefit to cutting the hub away?

Just a supply issue. If you can find the coupling to adapt PVC to a cast
iron hub, great. I've never seen any of those locally, but standard
Fernco's are easy to find. Unless the hub is part of a cast iron Tee or
something, I see no value in keeping it. Cut back to straight pipe and use
a common fitting.

Anthony

On Sep 28, 1:30*pm, HerHusband wrote:
On Sep 27, 1:49 pm, RicodJour wrote:

If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have
straight pipe on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.

What's the benefit to cutting the hub away?

Just a supply issue. If you can find the coupling to adapt PVC to a cast
iron hub, great. I've never seen any of those locally, but standard
Fernco's are easy to find. Unless the hub is part of a cast iron Tee or
something, I see no value in keeping it. Cut back to straight pipe and use
a common fitting.

I agree that does make more sense since the OP hasn't busted out the
lead joint yet. I was under the impression he'd removed it clean to
the hub and could simply use a donut. The donuts are standard issue,
and any chain hardware store will give you the online price delivered
to a local store if that works better for you.

R

Well, I ended up doing both ideas.

At the top end, I had broken the damaged pipe out up to the point of the
remaining hub that was still leaded to the incoming pipe from above that.
When I looked inside, the pipe coming down into the leaded hub was damaged,
so I left the hub in place. I'll look for a rubber adapter that goes over
the hub and will also connect to the PVC that I will be attaching from
below. I found that type of adapter at an ACE hardware store near me.

On the bottom end, I rented a soil pipe cutter and I used that to cut off
the pipe leaving about a 4-inch piece that I will connect up to the new PVC
with a rubber connector.

The soil pipe cutter was so-o-o cool! It worked like a charm. Since the
part of the pipe leading up to where I did the cut was damaged, there was a
chance that the whole thing would break, but I lucked out and the cutoff
worked perfectly.

Thanks all for your help!
..
"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Sep 28, 1:30 pm, HerHusband wrote:
On Sep 27, 1:49 pm, RicodJour wrote:

If possible, I'd cut the female fitting away so you just have
straight pipe on each end you can connect with Fernco couplings.

What's the benefit to cutting the hub away?

Just a supply issue. If you can find the coupling to adapt PVC to a cast
iron hub, great. I've never seen any of those locally, but standard
Fernco's are easy to find. Unless the hub is part of a cast iron Tee or
something, I see no value in keeping it. Cut back to straight pipe and use
a common fitting.

I agree that does make more sense since the OP hasn't busted out the
lead joint yet. I was under the impression he'd removed it clean to
the hub and could simply use a donut. The donuts are standard issue,
and any chain hardware store will give you the online price delivered
to a local store if that works better for you.

R