The 'Oregon' version of that tool, used by the coastal myrtlewood
turners is called 'the Big Ugly Tool'. To make it, you take a 3/4 inch
square bar stock about 30 inches long, and sliver solder a piece of
Tantung (don't know what exactly it is, but a piece about 7/8 inch
wide, and 2 plus inches long, and about 3/32 thick) onto each end. You
wear a glove on your right hand to protect it from the other cutter.
The profiles are slightly different, but the Tantung can be sharpened
on a standard grinding wheel. You can litterally turn for half a day
without having to resharpen. A wonderful tool, equally useful on
spindles and bowls. I have seen the daintiest of spindles/finials
turned with it, as well as bowls. For finish cuts, use it in a shear
angle. I love to rough out spindles with it, but prefer a wider tool
for bowls, in the 1 1/4 inch range. The only draw back to the Ci 1
Rougher is that you can't sharpen the cutters, and I am too cheap to
spend $22 for a new cutter each time I would wear one out. An
excellent tool though.
robo hippy

On Sep 15, 2:34*pm, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:
Mac
I looked at the site and the video. This is a nice scraper but it is just a
steel bar with a carbide cutter attached as a scraper. The cost is about
$10.00 to make. Use a stainless bar and the cost goes up but I doubt that
the cut would be any better. My big Oland with the 1/2" cutter lets me use
it to cut or scrape but I think this would be a very effective scraper.

Darrell

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canadahttp://aroundthewoods.comhttp://roundopinions.blogspot.com"mac davis" wrote in message

...



On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 09:25:42 -0700 (PDT), robo hippy

wrote:

Hey Reed... Have you seen these yet?
http://tinyurl.com/64hodh

Kind of pricey, but I'd like your opinion.. I'm considering one..
I'm going to email them and make sure that it will fit a Kelton handle...

I prefer a big heavy scraper. An Oland tool is a smaller scraper. You
can do as most others do and use a big bowl gouge. The thing I don't
like about the bowl gouges for roughing, is that they send the
shavings right across the top of your pinky finger and hand. Even if
the wood is wet, this is very abrasive and is why some turners wear a
glove on their left hand. If you do use a scraper, I prefer big heavy
ones, kind of like me and my lathe. They just feel better to me, and I
am very agressive when I rough out. Also, I always keep the scraper
angled slightly down.This helps prevent catches, and if you do have
one, it makes it a lot less dramatic. With scrapers, you can also both
push and pull with the tool, without having to change positions. If
you use a gouge, you generally have the flutes on their side for
roughing, and this is actually a scraping cut. How far back the flutes
are ground determine how big of a cut you can take. If you are
roughing out the inside of the bowl, you start with the flutes up to
make the entry cut, and then roll the gouge onto the side for roughing
after the cut has begun.
robo hippy

On Sep 14, 8:52 am, DJ Delorie wrote:
"john" writes:
BUT, what 'do' I use to rough out a bowl blank?

Chain saw, then power plane to balance it, then bowl gouge.

mac

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