On Sep 9, 12:02*pm, JJ wrote:
On Sep 9, 11:45 am, dpb wrote:





JJ wrote:

... I know that I do have the proper voltage to the switch. *So I'll do
the checking past that to the motor.

...

Are you absolutely sure of that -- that is, are you sure your shop is on
same source voltage as the shop from which it came? *(IE, I wouldn't
trust the cord plug as an indicator necessarily of 120V instead of 240V
as I've seen more than once the voltage on the motor be changed w/o
changing the plug on the pre-made cord).

Also, there are "heaters" (really fusible links) in the starter -- check
for continuity there--if there were a problem it's possible when you
first tried it they opened.

--

I guess I wouldn't bet my life on it, but I'm pretty certain the saw
hasn't been rewired to run at 120V. *All the wiring at the motor and
the starter looks to be 'stock' and unmodified.

I will check the heaters as well. *Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just wanted to verify that I'm testing for voltage downstream of the
switch correctly. If you look at page 53 in the current 1023 manual
(or 55 of 72 of the http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/g1023sl_m.pdf),
that echoes what my wiring looks like.

So the way I read that diagram and the way I see it wired, I should
only see voltage at the 1/2 and 5/6 leads on the Thermanl Overload
Relay WHEN I switch the saw on. Correct?

I confirmed that I do see voltage at L1/1 and L3/5 when I have the saw
plugged in.

So, if my assertion about the 1/2 and 5/6 TOR leads is correct, then
there is something definitely wrong with the starter, correct?

Thanks all,
Jeff