On Aug 31, 1:25 am, Tim Wescott wrote:
Thought 1: "Welding rod machines pretty nice"
Thought 3: "Never again will I buy a Smithy"
As a "mill", the Smithy just can't compare to the real milling machines
I've used.
The tail stock doesn't overhang, and the cross-feed slide is wide, so
you can't turn a shaft between centers all in one go -- at least not
unless I go buy an MT3 extension for the tail stock, which will make it
flexible.
The compound jib tapers a bit, so if I get it adjusted right for being
fully in it binds when it's fully out; if I loosen it to where it
doesn't bind when it's out then it's loose as all hell when it's fully in.
Having said all of that, for general lathe work it's not an unreasonable
machine.
So I bitch about it, and one of these days I'll get a real milling
machine, hopefully followed by a better lathe.
Tim Wescott
When I had the choice of turning parts on a CNC lathe, a Smithy
Granite or taking them home to my South Bend I usually chose the
Smithy. The 10" South Bend is *much* nicer to use but not really that
much more capable. Mine has the same issues you mention. The crossfeed
ways are worn so that the gibs can't be adjusted snug everywhere, and
the tool bit can be set to approach either the headstock or the
tailstock but not easily both, unless I run the tailstock spindle out
so far it's loose. On that lathe it's loose in any position anyway.
I get around the problem by extending the raw stock out a ways from
the collet, supporting it with the tailstock, and setting the bit on
the RH side of the post. The only real advantage of collets over a
chuck here is that collets aren't a big saw blade spinning next to my
left elbow. It takes some fussing to set up to turn the entire length
of a shaft. Usually I have to use the carriage stop because the
carriage barely clears the chuck jaws or faceplate if the bit will
reach the tail center. It's easier with collets.
I never milled with the Smithy. The gears are stripped and there was a
CNC Bridgeport nearby. As a lathe I could probably learn to live with
it.
The CNC lathe was very awkward for cutting existing parts to scribe
marks. It was the right machine to make new parts from CAD drawings. I
don't think I could stand it for cut-to-fit repairs and
modifications.
I have a good assortment of welding rod for turning and blacksmithing.
Among other things the stainless makes good rustproof needle bearings
and the 3/16" and 1/4" mild steel are large enough to weld together or
forge small tools out of. The brass was considerably cheaper at a
welding supplier than from a hobby store.
Some batches of water pipe machine well too and there are a few
convenient dimensions for machine parts. The ID of 3/8" pipe is
slightly under 0.500" and I use it for brass bushings and journals.
Likewise 1/4" pipe is just under 3/8" ID and 1/2" pipe is almost 5/8".
3/4" pipe telescopes into 1" pipe if you bore out the welding flash.
1" fits more loosely into 1-1/4". You can bore a 1-1/4" cap to a close
fit on the 1" pipe to steady it. To tighten the inside screw a fitting
onto the 1" pipe and then turn it down to sliding fit, with a groove
for the flash.
This style of tool post works well with HSS bits because you can angle
them any way you want on either side of the post and thus reach
further in both directions.
http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=40pos
These imports are well made and the holders fit my Swiss Multifix
center post perfectly. The steps are 9 degrees apart, so as long as
you grind the point angle to 80 degrees or sharper you can set the
bits to both turn and face at one setting, in a straight holder.
There's less advantage with carbide since the bits, inserts and
holders will already do that.
Jim Wilkins