RicodJour wrote in
:
On Aug 18, 9:01*pm, Mikepier wrote:
On Aug 18, 12:18*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 18, 12:04*pm, Mikepier wrote:
There is flashing under the caulk. Hard to tell in the pics but
at th
e
end of the valley underneath there is flashing.
The caulk just gets in the way of the water flow - it's more likely
to cause a leak than stop one. *If the valley didn't leak, there
wouldn'
t
be caulk.
So then its not normal for the caulk to be on the valley? Apparantly
an attempt to fix a problem?
It's not normal. It's a huge red flag. No one would do that unless
they had a leak and they had no clue as to how to locate the leak.
It's a bad idea to have clueless people on your roof for any reason.
When you see lots of roofing cement and caulking on chimney flashing
and around valleys you know you have a hack on your hands.
Hose technique in locating a leak is key. It requires two people.
You have to start at the bottom and flood the lowest area in
question. Use a regular hose stream, not a jet setting. Angle the
stream up under the shingle a bit to approximate wind driven rain.
Work on an area for five or ten minutes to make sure it's thoroughly
soaked. If you do it after a rain it will take less time to find the
leak. Work your way up the roof doing that. It might take an hour
to work your way up a twenty foot valley. Since you already know the
approximate location you can use a smaller hose stream and concentrate
in that area.
I would definitely consider redoing the valley. At the very least you
have to replace the shingles messed up with the caulk. While I was in
the area I'd probably pull the old valley flashing and install Ice &
Water Shield then a half closed valley (aka half woven).
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/l...ing/valley.htm
R
Just some further info building for Mikepier on your suggestion.
Assuming by half closed valley (aka half woven) and what link you
provided calls a closed valley, you mean what I learned as a closed-cut
valley...
I did 3 of these valleys on a house in the northeast 50mi from Canada.
Lots of ice and snow. Never done these before. No leaks. I did lots of
reading but my bible turned out to be Roofing with Asphalt Shingles, Mike
Guertin, Taunton press. Bookstores have it.
http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore...halt-shingles-
mike-guertin-070602.html
Ice and water shield (aka WSU): Grace is more expensive. But when you
have a piece of it in one hand and a piece of another brand in the other
you see why. For all the work you're doing, you'll want the Grace. Make
sure at the bottom of the valley the WSU goes OVER the metal drip edge.
Follow the advice diligently abut no nails within x inches of the valley.
Often written as 6". Guertin recommends 8".
Pay attention to determining which roof plane will be laid up on to the
other plane decking and which will be cut back from the valley center.
You need to determine which plane sheds the most water.
- but...Guertin recommends that the first row of shingles be woven to
shed water better.
Pay attention to part about no shingle butt joints within x inches of the
valley center. This is a lot easier with architectural shingles since
there's not tab spacing to worry about.
Note about clipping corners (dubbing) on some of the valley shingles.
Simple thing. Some claim it's critical.
The edge of the cut plane MUST be sealed with roofing cement, or better
yet polyurethane IMHO, to the shingles on the first plane they rest on.
Also, the edges that overlap on the same cut plane should be sealed. You
have to remember that in a downpour/wind driven rain, a lot of water will
be driven into this area. Just think as you are doing it that if you were
to take a garden hose and shoot it into this area with force, is there a
chance water could get under?
The one thing I noted in that link is that they appear to say to cut the
2nd plane at the valley centerline. From just about every source I've
read, including Guertin, they say to cut it back about 2".