Steve wrote:
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

Are you using a digital multimeter? 24V is too low for anything but
phantom voltage, unless you've got a really odd house that was wired up
with low voltage switches and relays (it's possible, I have heard of
such houses, but never actually seen one IRL.)

It sounds like you really are a beginner (and I don't mean that in a bad
way, everyone has to start somewhere) you should be reading 120VAC
between one of the black wires and either a white wire (neutral) or a
bare wire or the metal box (ground.) Make sure the meter is set on AC
volts and make sure you're measuring as I describe - one probe on the
black wire, one probe on neutral or ground.

If you get readings that still make you suspect the switch, kill the
power to the circuit, remove the switch and measure the resistance
between the two terminals. It should be infinite in the "off" position,
and essentially zero (less than one ohm) in the "on" position. If it
doesn't check out like that, replace it.

I'd recommend spending the extra ducats on a "spec grade" switch, it
will last a lot longer than a regular builder grade switch. Don't use
those awful push in from the back type wire connections either, always
use the screw clamps.

nate

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