"Jim Adney" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 7 Jul 2008 01:28:51 +0100 "Arfa Daily"
wrote:
So, if we believe the rating stamped on both the bulb itself, and its box,
and you are prepared to believe me when I tell you that with this bulb
fitted, the temperature of the shade was a whole heap hotter, then
somewhere, there must be another explanation than the two that you believe
are the only possibilities.
I believe everything you've told us about the bulbs. I have no reason
not to, but 60 Watts is still just 60 Watts.
There's no way to get more heat out of it than that. So either the old
60 was actually less than 60 or the new 60 is more than 60 (or both.)
Or you're mistaken about the new ones running hotter, which I agree is
the less likely option.
Presumably though, temperature will rise, both at the glass surface and the
surrounding air, if that heat is not being radiated away as quickly as with
the older design ?
One other possibility occurred to me, and that is that your socket
chose this moment to become resistive, which could have raised the
total power above 60 Watts and concentrated that extra power
dissipation in the socket - consistent with your observations. I'm not
familiar with the socket you describe, so maybe you can judge the
likelyhood of this. I suspect that if this had happened, the light
output would have been affected and you would have noticed.
-
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Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711 USA
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Plus I did say earlier that the socket was replaced fairly recently, and is
working just fine again now without one of those bulbs in it.
Here is a picture of the actual item so you will now know for ever, what a
UK bayonet cap looks like !
http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/...-pack-of-4.jpg
and here's one on a CFL. which shows the connection pads very clearly.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...ayonet-Cap.jpg
The B&Q bulb got hot enough to fry that black resin stuff, and completely
destroy one of the connector pads which are made from (lead-free now, I
guess) solder.
Arfa