On Jun 14, 12:30*pm, bz wrote:
wrote in news:0f0e8190-5002-4df7-a522-d77de45c1a20
@v1g2000pra.googlegroups.com:

On Jun 14, 3:34*am, bz wrote:
snip

Buy a soldering iron that is the right size at radio-shack.
Could be cheap, provided you practice, a lot, soldering on old PCB
boards.

Fix your board yourself.

Use GOOD solder 63/37 NOT 60/40.
60/40 is _bad_ solder ?

Yes. It passes through the 'plastic' stage during cooling. Do NOT jiggle or
you get a cold solder joint.
It melts at a higher temperature. Harder to get melted and get good solder
flow.

63/37 is _that_ much better?

Yes. Get a eutectic solder. [melts at the minimum temp for an alloy of
those metals].

Or did you mean

40/60 which _is_ bad solder ?

50/50 is worse than 60/40 and 40/60 is even worse.
[bad and good in relation to electronics usage. If you are a plumber, 50/50
might be better for your work.]



If you're patient with eBay, you can get a Metcal in parts for $100.
Bought 6 so far for at work. After using a Metcal you won't want to
use a Radio Shack soldering tusk.

A GOOD, temperature controlled, soldering iron is, OF COURSE, better than a
cheap iron.

--
bz * * *73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

* remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

Once you do solder it successfully, I would use a glob of epoxy to
help hold things together, not just depend on the glue to hold on by
itself. Good solder bonds can eventually break if they are under a
constant strain, the epoxy just might help lengthen your repair.

Bob Hofmann