Thanks Gunner. I sent an email to you and Cc-ed to Tom. This will get
him started.

i

On 2008-05-19, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2008 08:03:12 -0500, Ignoramus24782
wrote:

Martin, do you know these Hardinges, as it seems? Can that guy talk to
you perhaps? He is a super guy, NRA and whatever.

i
I do indeed work on Hardinge lathes

Iggy, have him call me. If he can use a VOM, Ill walk him through some
stuff.

Btw..the thermal breakers are located on the big black relay across
the bottom of the control box. Pull them out, then push them in.

The vari-drive motor may not run for a number of reasons, from the
limit switches in the acme rod motor housing being out of place, (turn
off power and hand turn to a mid rod position and pull the limit rod
up and down a couple times)

Any thermal breaker popping will kill the main contactor with the
possible exception of the coolant thermal (depending on age) That was
probably the CLICK you heard.

Frankly..given the complexity of some of the electrical stuff in the
control..not electronic..but electrical...I recommend ripping out all
the Stuff except the drum swiitches (2 or one in some), setting the
vari drive rod to mid range, and using the drum switches to control a
VFD, running a 3hp motor..the old one being a double wound 2 speed,
with a max of 1.5 hp on most. Often a Doer motor (save it..they are
worth a fair amount to those too stupid to install a VFD)
Keep the coolant switch and wire the VFDs aux output to the
hand/off/auto coolant switch for the coolant pump via a suitable low
voltage relay if the machine is equipped with coolant pump (or add
one)

What torque you lose on the low rpms, you make up for it with the 3hp
motor. Program max RPMs to give you no more than 3000 rpm at the
spindle. Bearings are only good for about 3500 rpm for long runs and
over 3000 ...the life goes down quickly. Id be happy to do a spindle
bearing change for him...and Im one of the cheapest in the business.
It will only cost travel, mileage and $500 PLUS the cost of the
bearings......but..shrug..run em as fast as you can afford.....G

Hardinge parts are available..usually..from Hardinge or scrap
machines, but if buying from Hardinge, be prepared to offer up your
first born in trade . They make Clausing look like a discount house.



Ill be doing this conversion shortly on my English made Hardinge TFB.
The one once rewired by a deslyxic, color blind Italian short order
cook.

Doing a conversion is easy, takes about half a day total if you plan
ahead and stick all the fcontrol stuff in the existing control head
shell with a new cover. There is room enough even for a tach if you
plan right. A Hall effect switch can be easily put on the ass end of
the spindle between the collet closer and the headstock.if you want a
true RPM gauge.. The VFD may..may fit inside the old control cabinet.
Some are too tall, in which case I suggest pulling off the old control
cabinet, putting on a "shelf" to shield the VFD, and bolting it
directly to the side of the machine, or in a can if you choose, but
you will lose the handle controls that run the drum switch ..but
switches will fit nicely in the existing control head, and a thin
multi cable run down the pipe holding the control head.



Gunner,
Coyote Engineering
OmniTurn and NC/manual Hardinge repair
Plant maint and industrial electrical

805-732-5308

On 2008-05-18, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Just thinking.

Was it shipped in with the "Half nut lever" engaged ? And the end stop or
tail stock was run up against it ? or it on the Headstock?

Is the Feed clutch in drive in/out and the cross slide is at and end ?

e.g. is the front lead screw turning for some reason ? Not a basic function.

The spindle might be dry and heats up. The pop might be a bushing expanding
or the like.

Didn't say that the machine stopped when it popped.

More input is needed.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Motors have end bell red buttons.
Some might be just internal. I had some that way.

Might be a current sensing unit in a power I/O box.

I have no idea what the control looks like - mine is a barrel switch
and a motor with belts and gears.

Many are electronic speed control in a lathe foot or cabinet.

Thermal breaker has a push out button. It pops.

I wasn't there so I can't say if a Klixon clicked or that was the
back gear that was jammed and the friction drive was used with to much
back force. [ Klixon is or was a Texas Instrument temperature switch
of high quality - bi-metal plate that flexes and that might be the pop.]


Rather hard to diagnose since I have not seen one or touched it.

Can you say were the pop came from ?
Any more input ?

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Ignoramus8671 wrote:
On 2008-05-18, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Sounds to me the Hardinge is running. The pop is likely a
re-settable temp
thermal breaker. An overload is present. I don't have one.

We couldnot find one, and also why would it pop???

Is there a back gear lock engaged ? spindle lock ? shipping that way ?

No. It spun just fine. And then, click -- and it stopped.
I would hope a Hardige owner / user would step in .



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