On May 9, 8:36Â*pm, ransley wrote:
On May 9, 6:58Â*pm, ransley wrote:





On May 9, 2:10Â*pm, " wrote:

On May 9, 10:43�am, Tony Hwang wrote:

terry wrote:
On May 9, 11:01 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Electric filament heaters are usually very expensive to run. And electric
water heaters use filaments.

For twenty bucks, this person could buy a ceramic heater from Walmart or
Home Depot, and plug it in to the wall. Get much the same output. The
ceramic heaters are supposed to be safe, and more heat for the buck.

Sounds like too much equipment, for not much benefit.

.
Thanks for all the comments.

I think part of the discussion was because electric hot water tanks
are still a pretty cheap item. (around $200). �And for a 'summer
cabin' if it has electrical service at all the 30 or so amps for
heating when the cabin is in use is not a major factor for what will
be at least a 100 amp/115-230 volt service.

Interesting to see some differences between European and North
American practice.

In North America one perceives many (most) �hot water heater tanks are
the 'always on', as opposed to 'instant' and have two elements, upper
and lower each with a thermostat. The upper thermostats usually
arranged as a 'flip-flop' .

The top element heats first and then flips over to the lower heater
element. In other words (normally as shipped from factory) only one
3000 watt heater is on a a time.

BTW in this part of Canada most heaters are 40 US gallon (about 33
Imperial gallons) and have two 3000 watt, 230 volt, heating elements.
However, daughters house has a 60 gallon version with i think, two
4500 watt elements, also arranged flip-flop.

It is possible very easily by moving one wire to alter so that both
heater elements can come on at same time, each under control of its
thermostat. That of course doubles the current flow (in our case for
6000 watts or about 26 amps).

Ours is wired with #10 AWG, good for 30 amps and a suitable breaker.