I had to fold the "References: " header again. It got too long for
jove to accept on a single line. :-) Then I had to create my own
} Message-Id: because that was where jove was snipping things off
when following-up.

Perhaps we should start trimming the end of the References
header every reply if we're going to keep this long a thread going. Of
course, it will mess up threading, but at least it won't hit the 1024
byte line length limit on jove -- or force me to move to emacs. :-)

On 2008-05-09, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... ]

O.K. And if the tip has a shallow 'V' in the top, it will make
the chip narrower than the slot, to reduce the chances of catching.

Yes, although I have not had that problem if I can prevent self-feeding
and overly thick chips.

O.K.

I've been looking for a cutoff tool that can be used in front, but with
reverse rotation. The BXA7R doesn't actually work for this, instead
being intended for use on the back side of a forward rotating workpiece.
What is needed is the mirror image of a BXA-7, versus an upside-down
BXA-7.

So -- make your own using the design of the Aloris one. The
main trick is getting the dovetail width and depth right. The trick for
measuring the width is to measure between two pieces of drill rod pushed
into the 'V's.

I've also been looking at the Aloris holder for SGIH blades, BXA-77.
However, it isn't clear that one can use upsidedown blades in this
holder, as the bevels on the blade are not symmetrical.

Perhaps the best solution is to install a cutoff tool bar with
rectangular shank upsidedown in a regular tool holder.

Perhaps. Or make something which you can clamp in the regular
holder but which will hold the blade of your choice upside down.

[ ... ]

Thumbscrew? Mine came with hex socket cap machine screws riding on
brass slugs. Hmm. The 5914 manual shows knurled thumbscrews, also
riding on brass slugs. So both thumbscrews were lost and replaced. The
cap screws are clumsy to use.

Mine had one thumbscrew and one cap screw, so I ordered a
thumbscrew along with the leadscrew and T-nut for the cross-slide.

I may do the same. I'm close to ordering a T-nut for the cross-slide
screw.

They were pretty cheap when I got mine -- at least by comparison
with everything else which I ordered. (Oh yes -- the felts for the
carriage-to-ways interface were pretty cheap, too.

[ ... ]

Yes. I guess that more of the Logan lathes were sold in the
hobbist size range, so we don't see the larger ones coming up on the
used market very often.

Actually, one did go by, at Gold Machinery in Rhode Island, but before I
was ready to buy anything. So did a Clausing 5914 for that matter.

Gold's reputation around Boston is that they are expensive, but have
good stuff. http://goldmachinery.com/machinery/index.htm

O.K. I'm retired too long to have the money to buy more large
tools, so that will simply be filed in memory somewhere in case I win a
*real* lottery instead of all the fake ones I get e-mails about. :-)

[ ... ]

Mine was $200.00 on eBay -- and cost more to ship down to the DC
area from the Boston area. :-)

That's a bit of a drive. How much did the shipping cost, and what year
was this? Perhaps I should have considered non-local sources.

I don't remember for sure, but I think about $240.00. And this
was back around 2000 I think.

Even with eight years of inflation, not such a bad price. One problem I
had with getting stuff from Gold Machinery was the distance. Perhaps it
was not as big a problem as feared.

Perhaps. But the prices will probably change on a day-to-day
basis with the fuel costs.

Good Luck,
DoN.