Red Green wrote:
"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote in
:


Red Green wrote:

As already said, redo it. There are several thing that make a good
job. One is to make sure the joints are REALLY cleaned. Shiny copper
clean.

Get yourself some inside & outside tubing cleaners. Good for lots of
other stuff too but don't get them cruddy then use to clean tubing.


I am happy to report the job is finished and no more leaks. I
wandered down to Lowes and bought a few things: specifically a heat
shield and a MAP torch. I cut a new section, cleaned up the ends
bright and shiny, fluxed the unions and the ends of the tubing and had
at it.

The map torch was a big improvement over the propane torch I had been
using. One of the things I liked was the momentary switch on it... I
pressed the trigger, the gas came on and then it ignited. ZIt stayed
ignited until i let go of the trigger, allowing me to free up my hands
very quickly. I also dug out the knee pads which made it much more
comfortable.

So, bottom line: next fall when the temperatures start dropping, I
can turn off the water under the house, access a port on the valve and
then blow out the line from the valveto under the back deck to the
outside faucet on the edge of the deck... leaving no water in the line
to freeze and split. Life is good.





Attaboy!

That's one thing I don't have is a mapp torch. From what I hear, once
you've tried it you never go back ;-) Maybe it's my propane torch head
but I hate that when I tilt the torch various ways the flame changes.

Is that a torch head issue anyone? If so, does the same thing happen with
mapp?

With any torch if it is tilted such that liquid rather that gaseous
phase fuel enters the torch the flame will be impacted.

About 15 years ago I gave up and visited my trusty pawn shop. I came
out with an acetylne B-bottle and a turbo torch on a 50 foot hose. I'll
never go back to the tank with a torch on top.

Boden