View Single Post
  #56   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
Manjo Manjo is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 44
Default Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem

On Apr 22, 8:34*am, wrote:
On Apr 22, 7:09 am, Manjo wrote:





On Apr 21, 6:59 pm, wrote:


I agree 100% with Husky.
I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought
back memories of working on them.


Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo!


I live in Central WI.


I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. *I went to the leaf
blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with
no engine information or details. *I went to B&S's web site and then
called Customer Service. *I was told by B&S the only repair manual
they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L"
Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". *That B&S manual covers plenty
of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no
"principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs
actually work. *My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float
carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that
filled in the bike’s official service manual carb blank spots.


And that's why I came to this forum. *I needed to fill in the big
blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read
Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also.
IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational
description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm
more than happy and willing to read it and learn.


(The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid,
and cheap. *I work hard to gather any and all information and data
available, I’m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to
buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and
appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to
repair for me. *To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.)


Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES,
IT"S a little wet.


Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting
fluid) into the carb
intake? *---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running,
but will start it. But I will try WD-40.


Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? *---- No. *I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a
replacement.


With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few
pulls of the rope?
----- I DON’T KNOW. *The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the
reservoir. *IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the
carb in place??


Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat
against the side face of the carb? *Did you use a new diaphragm, or
just reinstall the old one? * ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against
the carb body. *YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I
blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and
not damaged.


Thanks,


Manjo


Manjo


You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
the same time.
This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing
design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to
understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.

I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it
running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
for the short term.

Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this
fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when
I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.

Manjo