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#41
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 21, 6:44*am, wrote:
On Apr 20, 10:16 am, "patrick mitchel" wrote: *Here's a wild thought; I read that it's a leaf blower. Is there a belt drive in it? Was thinking of a way to power the engine using a drive to spin the motor - with the plug out and grounded. Long enough to see if the coil overheats and breaks down and loses spark. That would at least remove one of the variables. Having gone through a series of question with a 8 hp briggs L head (finally found an intermittent intake valve) that caused me some pondering *before I was able to put the thing back in service shredding the freakin ivy wall on the north side of the property. Pat The engine needs to RUN in order to heat the coil to thermal fault. Spinning has little to do with it. GROUP REPLY Well, I got the leaf blower running well enough so I could blow leaves off the backyard yesterday. I did remove and checked the muffler. I took off a cap used to direct the exhaust. IT looked OK and I could blow air in through the bottom and it was clear. A few days ago I removed and cleaned the crankcase vent (Parts 8 & 9). I put more Berrymans B-12 carb cleaner in the gas to enrich it a bit more and perhaps clean out any varnish I might have missed when I cleaned the carb earlier. I also connected my compressor to the spark plug hole. I started at 30 psi and went up to almost 100 psi, and heard no leakage nor did the compressor go on (it’s a small 3 gallon pancake compressor that empties fast if it constantly flows air which it didn’t). Being at TDC, the rings, head gasket and valves appear to be in good shape. I then removed the magneto and lightly sanded its two pick-ups, and the rotor. The rotor magnet seemed to still be very strong. I also noticed the magneto air-gap had been set (or the bolts became loose) so that the existing air-gap was smaller than what the manual calls for (010 to .014 inches). So I re-installed the magneto with a .012- inch air-gap. I got everything back together and pulled the starter cord several times without the engine starting. I squirted starter fluid into the open carb intake at the choke butterfly, pulled the cord and the engine started, then died as it had before. I pulled the cord again and the engine caught and ran a little longer. I kept doing this and each time the engine ran longer until I could get the engine to keep running with the choke about half closed. I put the air filter tray and air filter back on the running engine. The engine kept running and I little by little I turned the choke to full off. I then used the leaf blower for about 35 minutes to gather the backyard leaves. This morning I basically went through the same process of squirting starter fluid into the air intake and having the engine start and stop several times until it appeared that the engine was warmed up and would run with the choke half-on. I didn’t run the engine longer since I had other things to do before I could continue gathering leaves. Looking back over the past few days, I think ALL the suggestions and tips helped to get the engine in better shape in order to be ready to run correctly (clean carb and gas tank, check spark, compression, and exhaust, etc.). Since setting the magneto and sanding the pick-ups and rotor were the last things done, along with adding carb cleaner to the gas tank still leaves me with either a spark strength problem, a carburetion problem, or a carburetion problem caused by a weak spark. I’m going to keep an eye out for a spark tester as shown in the B&S repair manual so I can thoroughly test the spark before Fall. I appreciate everyone’s input that got me this far. If anyone sees something I’ve missed or would like to provide an additional test or suggestion so I can get the leaf blower to run constantly at full rpms, please let me know. Manjo |
#42
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
Manjo wrote: On Apr 18, 7:22 pm, wrote: Yes. I sprayed Berrymans B-12 carb cleaner into all carb circuits I could find including removing a small idle circuit screw and spraying fluid in there too. I looked for and saw spray fluid drip out the other end of the ciruits. I then blew compressed air into each circuit and felt fluid and then air come out the other end of the circuit. For what it's worth, there are only four (4) circuits I could locate: main pick-up tube circuit from the gas tank into the main carnb venturi; a shorter pick-up carb arm at the bottom with a jet fed from a small "cup" at the top of the gas tank; the idle circuit adjustment screw hole at the side; and what looks like an EPA crankcase gases recirculation port from a cover over the valves feeding back into and just above the choke butterfly valve. Here's a link I created to the Parts List pdf. The carb parts are shown and listed on Page 4. http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...LIST%20old.pdf Manjo Your description above indicates you do not understand how this carburetor functions. The long pick up to the bottom of the tank is the FUEL PUMP PICK UP. It does not feed the venturi, it feeds the diaphragm fuel pump in the side of the carb. The fuel pump feeds the reservoir in the top of the tank, overflowing back into the tank when the "bowl" is full. The short tube in the bowl is the same as the main and idle feed in any combined circuit bowl type carb. The main feed goes through a fixed metering jet or a screw on the top. The idle metering is through a screw on the side. Air into the screen on the bottom of the short tube should come out in the idle screw AND the main venturi. Air blown into the long tube should come out the side of the diaphragm mounting surface or the bottom of the carburetor, depending on whether the diaphragm is installed or not. However, compressed air into the long tube while the diaphragm is installed is liable to rupture the diaphragm. The tube for the crankcase gases, while there to reduce pollution, has been there since long before the EPA was even created. That carburetor has been around in one form or another since the 1960's. Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the plug wire? With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few pulls of the rope? Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat against the side face of the carb? Did you use a new diaphragm, or just reinstall the old one? I'm all for people who get the manuals, and have the skills doing their own work. But this knowledge is what you either pay for the manuals or hire a properly trained technician to provide. |
#43
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
I agree 100% with Husky.
I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought back memories of working on them. Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo! I live in Central WI. |
#44
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky
wrote: Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? ?????? WD-40 is fuel.... Never heard of this method and would not use it. |
#45
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
Why not?
s "Oren" wrote in message ... Never heard of this method and would not use it. |
#46
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
Just asking, but isn't WD-40 kerosene?
"Oren" wrote in message ... On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky wrote: Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? ?????? WD-40 is fuel.... Never heard of this method and would not use it. |
#47
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 22, 6:50 am, "jacko" wrote:
Just asking, but isn't WD-40 kerosene?"Oren" wrote in message ... On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky wrote: Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? ?????? WD-40 is fuel.... Never heard of this method and would not use it You can safely spray WD-40 to run an engine because its propellant is propane gas...and the oil lubricates the upper cylinder. All mechanics know of this...and most use it! |
#48
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 21, 6:59*pm, wrote:
I agree 100% with Husky. I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought back memories of working on them. Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo! I live in Central WI. I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. I went to the leaf blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with no engine information or details. I went to B&S's web site and then called Customer Service. I was told by B&S the only repair manual they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L" Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". That B&S manual covers plenty of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no "principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs actually work. My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that filled in the bike’s official service manual carb blank spots. And that's why I came to this forum. I needed to fill in the big blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also. IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm more than happy and willing to read it and learn. (The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid, and cheap. I work hard to gather any and all information and data available, I’m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to repair for me. To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.) Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES, IT"S a little wet. Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? ---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running, but will start it. But I will try WD-40. Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the plug wire? ---- No. I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a replacement. With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few pulls of the rope? ----- I DON’T KNOW. The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the reservoir. IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the carb in place?? Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat against the side face of the carb? Did you use a new diaphragm, or just reinstall the old one? ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against the carb body. YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and not damaged. Thanks, Manjo Manjo |
#49
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 22, 7:09 am, Manjo wrote:
On Apr 21, 6:59 pm, wrote: I agree 100% with Husky. I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought back memories of working on them. Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo! I live in Central WI. I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. I went to the leaf blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with no engine information or details. I went to B&S's web site and then called Customer Service. I was told by B&S the only repair manual they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L" Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". That B&S manual covers plenty of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no "principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs actually work. My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that filled in the bike’s official service manual carb blank spots. And that's why I came to this forum. I needed to fill in the big blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also. IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm more than happy and willing to read it and learn. (The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid, and cheap. I work hard to gather any and all information and data available, I’m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to repair for me. To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.) Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES, IT"S a little wet. Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? ---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running, but will start it. But I will try WD-40. Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the plug wire? ---- No. I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a replacement. With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few pulls of the rope? ----- I DON’T KNOW. The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the reservoir. IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the carb in place?? Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat against the side face of the carb? Did you use a new diaphragm, or just reinstall the old one? ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against the carb body. YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and not damaged. Thanks, Manjo Manjo You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at the same time. This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. It is an amazing design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and them put him back in the asylum. |
#51
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 22, 1:48 pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 04:58:18 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Apr 22, 6:50 am, "jacko" wrote: Just asking, but isn't WD-40 kerosene?"Oren" wrote in message . .. On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky wrote: Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? ?????? WD-40 is fuel.... Never heard of this method and would not use it You can safely spray WD-40 to run an engine because its propellant is propane gas...and the oil lubricates the upper cylinder. All mechanics know of this...and most use it! This thread is the first time I've read about using WD-40. Never observed a mechanic use it, but rather they used carb / starting fluid. Thanks. (G) Starting fluid (ether) is never used by anyone who knows their stuff... 2-cycles (or even 4) are likely to blow-up in your face! Too much carb cleaner will dry the cylinder wall and thin the oil. |
#52
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
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#53
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
I would use it on a four stroke any time I work on a fuel starved
engine. Key phase he ...knows their stuff. 8^) |
#54
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
"I would use it on a four stroke any time I work on a fuel starved
engine." Key phrase he knows their stuff. 8^) |
#55
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
Oren wrote: On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky wrote: Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? ?????? WD-40 is fuel.... Never heard of this method and would not use it. WD-40 is a highly flammable petroleum distillate which contains oil. Starting fluid contains no lubrication and consists primarily of ether and flammable gases. In fact, it will wash any remaining lubrication off of the cylinder walls. I can and have even test run two stroke engines for short periods on WD-40 without damage, though I don't recommend doing it very long. It tends to foul the plugs due to the incomplete combustion. |
#56
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 22, 8:34*am, wrote:
On Apr 22, 7:09 am, Manjo wrote: On Apr 21, 6:59 pm, wrote: I agree 100% with Husky. I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought back memories of working on them. Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo! I live in Central WI. I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. *I went to the leaf blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with no engine information or details. *I went to B&S's web site and then called Customer Service. *I was told by B&S the only repair manual they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L" Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". *That B&S manual covers plenty of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no "principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs actually work. *My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that filled in the bike’s official service manual carb blank spots. And that's why I came to this forum. *I needed to fill in the big blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also. IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm more than happy and willing to read it and learn. (The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid, and cheap. *I work hard to gather any and all information and data available, I’m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to repair for me. *To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.) Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES, IT"S a little wet. Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? *---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running, but will start it. But I will try WD-40. Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the plug wire? *---- No. *I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a replacement. With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few pulls of the rope? ----- I DON’T KNOW. *The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the reservoir. *IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the carb in place?? Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat against the side face of the carb? *Did you use a new diaphragm, or just reinstall the old one? * ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against the carb body. *YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and not damaged. Thanks, Manjo Manjo You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at the same time. This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge. I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good for the short term. Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when I bought it, I'll post whatever I found. Manjo |
#57
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 01:30:44 GMT, Husky
wrote: Oren wrote: On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky wrote: Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb intake? ?????? WD-40 is fuel.... Never heard of this method and would not use it. WD-40 is a highly flammable petroleum distillate which contains oil. Starting fluid contains no lubrication and consists primarily of ether and flammable gases. In fact, it will wash any remaining lubrication off of the cylinder walls. I can and have even test run two stroke engines for short periods on WD-40 without damage, though I don't recommend doing it very long. It tends to foul the plugs due to the incomplete combustion. I learned something here about using WD-40, so I'll try this if I ever need to spray a carb intake in the future. When I have used starting fluid, in the past it has been one or two squirts into the carb. I don't flood the thing, just try to get the engine fired up. I don't have a can now, but WD-40 I have |
#58
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote: Manjo You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at the same time. This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge. I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good for the short term. One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range (correct plug number) and the gap is set properly. As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left in the kit box :-)) Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when I bought it, I'll post whatever I found. |
#59
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 23, 3:50 pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo wrote: Manjo You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at the same time. This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. It is an amazing design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge. I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good for the short term. One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range (correct plug number) and the gap is set properly. As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left in the kit box :-)) Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when I bought it, I'll post whatever I found. Especially with the price of gas as it is...people will try to use old gas and not have any luck starting. Drain the gas if you haven't done it last fall and use fresh gas. (even Sta-Bil has its limitations) |
#60
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 16, 9:30 pm, Manjo wrote:
I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. The carb is pretty simple with a choke butterfly, throttle butterfly, and rubber diaphragm fuel pump. The carb sits on top of the fule tank. The carb has no bowl. The governor linakges are clean and the governor appears to be working fine. The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. This spring it started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20 seconds. I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank, and the gasket between the carb and the engine. I've also disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine when the throttle is tuned full off. But after doing all this the engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds. Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments. Manjo alas...our thread is lost amid putrid spam! |
#61
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 23, 4:50*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo wrote: Manjo You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at the same time. This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks. *Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. *Trying to understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge. I'll just keep plugging along. *Since I can start it and keep it running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good for the short term. One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range (correct plug number) *and the gap is set properly. As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left in the kit box :-)) Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. *When I get this fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using the spec Champion spark plug at spec gap and I used 2 different spec spark plugs (the last is brand new). I'm now assuming and testing for a carb fuel flow problem. I've ordered a new pick-up tube and a spring for the idle screw just to be on the safe side. I have turned the idle screw to several different setting with no starting improvement. I'm going to pull the carb today for the last time and take off all the rubber parts and soak it in Berrymans Carb Cleaner (I have a gallon can with a screen tray for dipping). I did use spray carb cleaner a week ago that "seemed" to help. So I'm thinking a 3-5 minute soak should get any crap and varnish that might still be in the circuits. As for old gas, I have removed, drained and flushed the tank already and adding freshest gas provides little improvement. The leaf blower seems to run better with 2-3 ounces of Berrymans Carb Fluid mixed with a full tank of gas. Even with the carb cleaner fluid it still takes 2-3 starts before the engine keeps running on 1/2 choke and then after 9-12 minutes I can turn the choke off completely, but the engine does run a lot longer than 2 weeks ago. (I have been using WD-40, but I haven't needed it the last couple of days. WD-40 doesn't make starting that much easier, but reading about all the down sides of starter fluid in the earlier posts makes it easier to accept a little harder starting using WD-40 when I have to). Best regards, Manjo |
#62
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:32:58 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote: On Apr 23, 4:50*pm, Oren wrote: On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo wrote: Manjo You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at the same time. This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks. *Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. *Trying to understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge. I'll just keep plugging along. *Since I can start it and keep it running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good for the short term. One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range (correct plug number) *and the gap is set properly. As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left in the kit box :-)) Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. *When I get this fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm using the spec Champion spark plug at spec gap and I used 2 different spec spark plugs (the last is brand new). I'm now assuming and testing for a carb fuel flow problem. I've ordered a new pick-up tube and a spring for the idle screw just to be on the safe side. I have turned the idle screw to several different setting with no starting improvement. I'm going to pull the carb today for the last time and take off all the rubber parts and soak it in Berrymans Carb Cleaner (I have a gallon can with a screen tray for dipping). I did use spray carb cleaner a week ago that "seemed" to help. So I'm thinking a 3-5 minute soak should get any crap and varnish that might still be in the circuits. The times I have soaked a carb I always soaked them overnight or 24 hours. The auto parts store used to sell these kits, with the strainer (tells how long it's been. It was branded/named GUNK. Drop the carb in and clean the next day. Wash rinsed with water and blown out with an air hose. Remove jets, screws, etc and drop all the parts into the strainer for a GOOD soak. As for old gas, I have removed, drained and flushed the tank already and adding freshest gas provides little improvement. The leaf blower seems to run better with 2-3 ounces of Berrymans Carb Fluid mixed with a full tank of gas. Even with the carb cleaner fluid it still takes 2-3 starts before the engine keeps running on 1/2 choke and then after 9-12 minutes I can turn the choke off completely, but the engine does run a lot longer than 2 weeks ago. (I have been using WD-40, but I haven't needed it the last couple of days. WD-40 doesn't make starting that much easier, but reading about all the down sides of starter fluid in the earlier posts makes it easier to accept a little harder starting using WD-40 when I have to). Best regards, Manjo |
#63
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
"The times I have soaked a carb I always soaked them overnight or 24
hours. The auto parts store used to sell these kits, with the strainer (tells how long it's been. It was branded/named GUNK. Drop the carb in and clean the next day. Wash rinsed with water and blown out with an air hose. Remove jets, screws, etc and drop all the parts into the strainer for a GOOD soak." Oren...I remember rebuilding my 66 Chev Impala 2-barrel and using lacquer thinner for the soak! |
#64
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 05:41:16 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote: On Apr 19, 11:00*am, dpb wrote: Manjo wrote: I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. *... ... The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. *This spring it started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20 seconds. I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank, and the gasket between the carb and the engine. *I've also disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine when the throttle is tuned full off. *But after doing all this the engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds. Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments. I've not read the rest of the thread but noted you were apparently still searching -- Anybody suggested checking the exhaust screen (I'm assuming it has one) for C deposits? *Sounds like it could be clogged w/ buildup which will cause such symptoms... --- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The exhaust has not been checked. I did put my hand near the exhaust canister and I could feel puffs of air as the engine ran at normal rpm. But now that you mention this, the air pressure felt a little low or soft. I'll pull the can and check it today. Manjo Really, take a good look at it. I had a string trimmer with similar start/die problems, that I spent weeks on. Rebuilt the fuel pump, etc. Then I cleaned the 'spark suppressor' screen, and it's run perfectly since. I've since been told that running small engines at less than WOT will load them up with carbon. George |
#65
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
On Apr 29, 10:26 pm, George wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 05:41:16 -0700 (PDT), Manjo wrote: On Apr 19, 11:00 am, dpb wrote: Manjo wrote: I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. ... ... The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. This spring it started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20 seconds. I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank, and the gasket between the carb and the engine. I've also disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine when the throttle is tuned full off. But after doing all this the engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds. Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments. I've not read the rest of the thread but noted you were apparently still searching -- Anybody suggested checking the exhaust screen (I'm assuming it has one) for C deposits? Sounds like it could be clogged w/ buildup which will cause such symptoms... --- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The exhaust has not been checked. I did put my hand near the exhaust canister and I could feel puffs of air as the engine ran at normal rpm. But now that you mention this, the air pressure felt a little low or soft. I'll pull the can and check it today. Manjo Really, take a good look at it. I had a string trimmer with similar start/die problems, that I spent weeks on. Rebuilt the fuel pump, etc. Then I cleaned the 'spark suppressor' screen, and it's run perfectly since. I've since been told that running small engines at less than WOT will load them up with carbon. George Geo, this is a 4-cycle, I know...the thread is a little long! |
#66
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Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
Those screens need to be drilled out and thrown away. We had EVERY one we
ever bought clog WITH the proper mix and all day WOT use. steve "George" wrote in message ... Really, take a good look at it. I had a string trimmer with similar start/die problems, that I spent weeks on. Rebuilt the fuel pump, etc. Then I cleaned the 'spark suppressor' screen, and it's run perfectly since. I've since been told that running small engines at less than WOT will load them up with carbon. George |
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