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Default Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem

On Apr 21, 6:44*am, wrote:
On Apr 20, 10:16 am, "patrick mitchel" wrote:

*Here's a wild thought; I read that it's a leaf blower. Is there a belt
drive in it? Was thinking of a way to power the engine using a drive to spin
the motor - with the plug out and grounded. Long enough to see if the coil
overheats and breaks down and loses spark. That would at least remove one of
the variables. Having gone through a series of question with a 8 hp briggs L
head (finally found an intermittent intake valve) that caused me some
pondering *before I was able to put the thing back in service shredding the
freakin ivy wall on the north side of the property. Pat


The engine needs to RUN in order to heat the coil to thermal fault.
Spinning has little to do with it.


GROUP REPLY

Well, I got the leaf blower running well enough so I could blow leaves
off the backyard yesterday.

I did remove and checked the muffler. I took off a cap used to direct
the exhaust. IT looked OK and I could blow air in through the bottom
and it was clear. A few days ago I removed and cleaned the crankcase
vent (Parts 8 & 9). I put more Berrymans B-12 carb cleaner in the gas
to enrich it a bit more and perhaps clean out any varnish I might have
missed when I cleaned the carb earlier. I also connected my
compressor to the spark plug hole. I started at 30 psi and went up to
almost 100 psi, and heard no leakage nor did the compressor go on
(it’s a small 3 gallon pancake compressor that empties fast if it
constantly flows air which it didn’t). Being at TDC, the rings, head
gasket and valves appear to be in good shape.

I then removed the magneto and lightly sanded its two pick-ups, and
the rotor. The rotor magnet seemed to still be very strong. I also
noticed the magneto air-gap had been set (or the bolts became loose)
so that the existing air-gap was smaller than what the manual calls
for (010 to .014 inches). So I re-installed the magneto with a .012-
inch air-gap.

I got everything back together and pulled the starter cord several
times without the engine starting. I squirted starter fluid into the
open carb intake at the choke butterfly, pulled the cord and the
engine started, then died as it had before. I pulled the cord again
and the engine caught and ran a little longer. I kept doing this and
each time the engine ran longer until I could get the engine to keep
running with the choke about half closed. I put the air filter tray
and air filter back on the running engine. The engine kept running
and I little by little I turned the choke to full off. I then used
the leaf blower for about 35 minutes to gather the backyard leaves.

This morning I basically went through the same process of squirting
starter fluid into the air intake and having the engine start and stop
several times until it appeared that the engine was warmed up and
would run with the choke half-on. I didn’t run the engine longer
since I had other things to do before I could continue gathering
leaves.

Looking back over the past few days, I think ALL the suggestions and
tips helped to get the engine in better shape in order to be ready to
run correctly (clean carb and gas tank, check spark, compression, and
exhaust, etc.). Since setting the magneto and sanding the pick-ups and
rotor were the last things done, along with adding carb cleaner to the
gas tank still leaves me with either a spark strength problem, a
carburetion problem, or a carburetion problem caused by a weak spark.
I’m going to keep an eye out for a spark tester as shown in the B&S
repair manual so I can thoroughly test the spark before Fall.

I appreciate everyone’s input that got me this far. If anyone sees
something I’ve missed or would like to provide an additional test or
suggestion so I can get the leaf blower to run constantly at full
rpms, please let me know.

Manjo
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Manjo wrote:
On Apr 18, 7:22 pm, wrote:



Yes. I sprayed Berrymans B-12 carb cleaner into all carb circuits I
could find including removing a small idle circuit screw and spraying
fluid in there too. I looked for and saw spray fluid drip out the
other end of the ciruits. I then blew compressed air into each
circuit and felt fluid and then air come out the other end of the
circuit.

For what it's worth, there are only four (4) circuits I could locate:
main pick-up tube circuit from the gas tank into the main carnb
venturi; a shorter pick-up carb arm at the bottom with a jet fed from
a small "cup" at the top of the gas tank; the idle circuit adjustment
screw hole at the side; and what looks like an EPA crankcase gases
recirculation port from a cover over the valves feeding back into and
just above the choke butterfly valve. Here's a link I created to
the Parts List pdf. The carb parts are shown and listed on Page 4.
http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...LIST%20old.pdf

Manjo


Your description above indicates you do not understand how this
carburetor functions. The long pick up to the bottom of the tank is the
FUEL PUMP PICK UP. It does not feed the venturi, it feeds the diaphragm
fuel pump in the side of the carb. The fuel pump feeds the reservoir in
the top of the tank, overflowing back into the tank when the "bowl" is
full. The short tube in the bowl is the same as the main and idle feed
in any combined circuit bowl type carb. The main feed goes through a
fixed metering jet or a screw on the top. The idle metering is through a
screw on the side. Air into the screen on the bottom of the short tube
should come out in the idle screw AND the main venturi. Air blown into
the long tube should come out the side of the diaphragm mounting surface
or the bottom of the carburetor, depending on whether the diaphragm is
installed or not. However, compressed air into the long tube while the
diaphragm is installed is liable to rupture the diaphragm.

The tube for the crankcase gases, while there to reduce pollution, has
been there since long before the EPA was even created. That carburetor
has been around in one form or another since the 1960's.

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake? Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up
after a few pulls of the rope? Are the little "flaps" cut in the
diaphragm curling up or laying flat against the side face of the carb?
Did you use a new diaphragm, or just reinstall the old one?

I'm all for people who get the manuals, and have the skills doing their
own work. But this knowledge is what you either pay for the manuals or
hire a properly trained technician to provide.
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Default Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem

I agree 100% with Husky.
I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought
back memories of working on them.

Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo!

I live in Central WI.
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky
wrote:

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake?




?????? WD-40 is fuel....

Never heard of this method and would not use it.
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Why not?


s


"Oren" wrote in message
...

Never heard of this method and would not use it.





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Just asking, but isn't WD-40 kerosene?
"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky
wrote:

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake?




?????? WD-40 is fuel....

Never heard of this method and would not use it.



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On Apr 22, 6:50 am, "jacko" wrote:
Just asking, but isn't WD-40 kerosene?"Oren" wrote in message

...

On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky
wrote:


Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake?


?????? WD-40 is fuel....


Never heard of this method and would not use it


You can safely spray WD-40 to run an engine because its propellant is
propane gas...and the oil lubricates the upper cylinder.
All mechanics know of this...and most use it!
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On Apr 21, 6:59*pm, wrote:
I agree 100% with Husky.
I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought
back memories of working on them.

Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo!

I live in Central WI.


I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. I went to the leaf
blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with
no engine information or details. I went to B&S's web site and then
called Customer Service. I was told by B&S the only repair manual
they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L"
Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". That B&S manual covers plenty
of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no
"principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs
actually work. My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float
carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that
filled in the bike’s official service manual carb blank spots.

And that's why I came to this forum. I needed to fill in the big
blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read
Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also.
IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational
description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm
more than happy and willing to read it and learn.

(The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid,
and cheap. I work hard to gather any and all information and data
available, I’m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to
buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and
appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to
repair for me. To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.)

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES,
IT"S a little wet.

Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting
fluid) into the carb
intake? ---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running,
but will start it. But I will try WD-40.

Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? ---- No. I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a
replacement.

With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few
pulls of the rope?
----- I DON’T KNOW. The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the
reservoir. IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the
carb in place??

Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat
against the side face of the carb? Did you use a new diaphragm, or
just reinstall the old one? ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against
the carb body. YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I
blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and
not damaged.

Thanks,

Manjo





Manjo
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On Apr 22, 7:09 am, Manjo wrote:
On Apr 21, 6:59 pm, wrote:

I agree 100% with Husky.
I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought
back memories of working on them.


Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo!


I live in Central WI.


I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. I went to the leaf
blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with
no engine information or details. I went to B&S's web site and then
called Customer Service. I was told by B&S the only repair manual
they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L"
Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". That B&S manual covers plenty
of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no
"principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs
actually work. My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float
carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that
filled in the bike’s official service manual carb blank spots.

And that's why I came to this forum. I needed to fill in the big
blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read
Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also.
IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational
description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm
more than happy and willing to read it and learn.

(The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid,
and cheap. I work hard to gather any and all information and data
available, I’m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to
buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and
appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to
repair for me. To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.)

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES,
IT"S a little wet.

Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting
fluid) into the carb
intake? ---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running,
but will start it. But I will try WD-40.

Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? ---- No. I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a
replacement.

With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few
pulls of the rope?
----- I DON’T KNOW. The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the
reservoir. IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the
carb in place??

Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat
against the side face of the carb? Did you use a new diaphragm, or
just reinstall the old one? ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against
the carb body. YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I
blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and
not damaged.

Thanks,

Manjo

Manjo


You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
the same time.
This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. It is an amazing
design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
them put him back in the asylum.
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On Apr 22, 1:48 pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 04:58:18 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Apr 22, 6:50 am, "jacko" wrote:
Just asking, but isn't WD-40 kerosene?"Oren" wrote in message


. ..


On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky
wrote:


Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake?


?????? WD-40 is fuel....


Never heard of this method and would not use it


You can safely spray WD-40 to run an engine because its propellant is
propane gas...and the oil lubricates the upper cylinder.
All mechanics know of this...and most use it!


This thread is the first time I've read about using WD-40. Never
observed a mechanic use it, but rather they used carb / starting
fluid.

Thanks.

(G)


Starting fluid (ether) is never used by anyone who knows their stuff...
2-cycles (or even 4) are likely to blow-up in your face!
Too much carb cleaner will dry the cylinder wall and thin the oil.
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I would use it on a four stroke any time I work on a fuel starved
engine.

Key phase he ...knows their stuff. 8^)
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"I would use it on a four stroke any time I work on a fuel starved
engine."

Key phrase he knows their stuff. 8^)
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Oren wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky
wrote:

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake?




?????? WD-40 is fuel....

Never heard of this method and would not use it.


WD-40 is a highly flammable petroleum distillate which contains oil.

Starting fluid contains no lubrication and consists primarily of ether
and flammable gases. In fact, it will wash any remaining lubrication off
of the cylinder walls.

I can and have even test run two stroke engines for short periods on
WD-40 without damage, though I don't recommend doing it very long. It
tends to foul the plugs due to the incomplete combustion.


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On Apr 22, 8:34*am, wrote:
On Apr 22, 7:09 am, Manjo wrote:





On Apr 21, 6:59 pm, wrote:


I agree 100% with Husky.
I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought
back memories of working on them.


Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo!


I live in Central WI.


I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. *I went to the leaf
blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with
no engine information or details. *I went to B&S's web site and then
called Customer Service. *I was told by B&S the only repair manual
they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L"
Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". *That B&S manual covers plenty
of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no
"principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs
actually work. *My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float
carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that
filled in the bike’s official service manual carb blank spots.


And that's why I came to this forum. *I needed to fill in the big
blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read
Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also.
IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational
description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm
more than happy and willing to read it and learn.


(The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid,
and cheap. *I work hard to gather any and all information and data
available, I’m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to
buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and
appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to
repair for me. *To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.)


Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES,
IT"S a little wet.


Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting
fluid) into the carb
intake? *---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running,
but will start it. But I will try WD-40.


Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? *---- No. *I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a
replacement.


With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few
pulls of the rope?
----- I DON’T KNOW. *The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the
reservoir. *IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the
carb in place??


Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat
against the side face of the carb? *Did you use a new diaphragm, or
just reinstall the old one? * ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against
the carb body. *YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I
blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and
not damaged.


Thanks,


Manjo


Manjo


You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
the same time.
This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing
design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to
understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.

I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it
running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
for the short term.

Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this
fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when
I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.

Manjo
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On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 01:30:44 GMT, Husky
wrote:



Oren wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky
wrote:

Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake?




?????? WD-40 is fuel....

Never heard of this method and would not use it.


WD-40 is a highly flammable petroleum distillate which contains oil.

Starting fluid contains no lubrication and consists primarily of ether
and flammable gases. In fact, it will wash any remaining lubrication off
of the cylinder walls.

I can and have even test run two stroke engines for short periods on
WD-40 without damage, though I don't recommend doing it very long. It
tends to foul the plugs due to the incomplete combustion.


I learned something here about using WD-40, so I'll try this if I ever
need to spray a carb intake in the future.

When I have used starting fluid, in the past it has been one or two
squirts into the carb. I don't flood the thing, just try to get the
engine fired up. I don't have a can now, but WD-40 I have
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On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:

Manjo


You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
the same time.
This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing
design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to
understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.

I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it
running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
for the short term.


One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range
(correct plug number) and the gap is set properly.

As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left
in the kit box :-))

Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this
fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when
I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.

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On Apr 23, 3:50 pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:



Manjo


You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
the same time.
This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. It is an amazing
design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to
understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.


I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it
running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
for the short term.


One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range
(correct plug number) and the gap is set properly.

As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left
in the kit box :-))

Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this
fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when
I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.


Especially with the price of gas as it is...people will try to use old
gas and not have any luck starting.
Drain the gas if you haven't done it last fall and use fresh gas.
(even Sta-Bil has its limitations)
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On Apr 16, 9:30 pm, Manjo wrote:
I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. The carb
is pretty simple with a choke butterfly, throttle butterfly, and
rubber diaphragm fuel pump. The carb sits on top of the fule tank.
The carb has no bowl. The governor linakges are clean and the
governor appears to be working fine.

The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. This spring it
started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at
proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20
seconds.

I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm
fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank,
and the gasket between the carb and the engine. I've also
disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine
when the throttle is tuned full off. But after doing all this the
engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds.

Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments.

Manjo


alas...our thread is lost amid putrid spam!


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On Apr 23, 4:50*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:





Manjo


You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
the same time.
This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing
design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Thanks. *Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. *Trying to
understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.


I'll just keep plugging along. *Since I can start it and keep it
running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
for the short term.


One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range
(correct plug number) *and the gap is set properly.

As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left
in the kit box :-))



Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. *When I get this
fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when
I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I'm using the spec Champion spark plug at spec gap and I used 2
different spec spark plugs (the last is brand new).

I'm now assuming and testing for a carb fuel flow problem. I've
ordered a new pick-up tube and a spring for the idle screw just to be
on the safe side. I have turned the idle screw to several different
setting with no starting improvement. I'm going to pull the carb
today for the last time and take off all the rubber parts and soak it
in Berrymans Carb Cleaner (I have a gallon can with a screen tray for
dipping). I did use spray carb cleaner a week ago that "seemed" to
help. So I'm thinking a 3-5 minute soak should get any crap and
varnish that might still be in the circuits.

As for old gas, I have removed, drained and flushed the tank already
and adding freshest gas provides little improvement. The leaf blower
seems to run better with 2-3 ounces of Berrymans Carb Fluid mixed with
a full tank of gas. Even with the carb cleaner fluid it still takes
2-3 starts before the engine keeps running on 1/2 choke and then after
9-12 minutes I can turn the choke off completely, but the engine does
run a lot longer than 2 weeks ago.

(I have been using WD-40, but I haven't needed it the last couple of
days. WD-40 doesn't make starting that much easier, but reading about
all the down sides of starter fluid in the earlier posts makes it
easier to accept a little harder starting using WD-40 when I have to).

Best regards,

Manjo


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Default Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem

On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:32:58 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:

On Apr 23, 4:50*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:





Manjo


You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
the same time.
This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. *It is an amazing
design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Thanks. *Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. *Trying to
understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.


I'll just keep plugging along. *Since I can start it and keep it
running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
for the short term.


One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range
(correct plug number) *and the gap is set properly.

As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left
in the kit box :-))



Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. *When I get this
fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when
I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I'm using the spec Champion spark plug at spec gap and I used 2
different spec spark plugs (the last is brand new).

I'm now assuming and testing for a carb fuel flow problem. I've
ordered a new pick-up tube and a spring for the idle screw just to be
on the safe side. I have turned the idle screw to several different
setting with no starting improvement. I'm going to pull the carb
today for the last time and take off all the rubber parts and soak it
in Berrymans Carb Cleaner (I have a gallon can with a screen tray for
dipping). I did use spray carb cleaner a week ago that "seemed" to
help. So I'm thinking a 3-5 minute soak should get any crap and
varnish that might still be in the circuits.


The times I have soaked a carb I always soaked them overnight or 24
hours. The auto parts store used to sell these kits, with the strainer
(tells how long it's been. It was branded/named GUNK. Drop the carb
in and clean the next day. Wash rinsed with water and blown out with
an air hose.

Remove jets, screws, etc and drop all the parts into the strainer for
a GOOD soak.


As for old gas, I have removed, drained and flushed the tank already
and adding freshest gas provides little improvement. The leaf blower
seems to run better with 2-3 ounces of Berrymans Carb Fluid mixed with
a full tank of gas. Even with the carb cleaner fluid it still takes
2-3 starts before the engine keeps running on 1/2 choke and then after
9-12 minutes I can turn the choke off completely, but the engine does
run a lot longer than 2 weeks ago.

(I have been using WD-40, but I haven't needed it the last couple of
days. WD-40 doesn't make starting that much easier, but reading about
all the down sides of starter fluid in the earlier posts makes it
easier to accept a little harder starting using WD-40 when I have to).

Best regards,

Manjo

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"The times I have soaked a carb I always soaked them overnight or 24
hours. The auto parts store used to sell these kits, with the strainer
(tells how long it's been. It was branded/named GUNK. Drop the carb
in and clean the next day. Wash rinsed with water and blown out with
an air hose.

Remove jets, screws, etc and drop all the parts into the strainer for
a GOOD soak."


Oren...I remember rebuilding my 66 Chev Impala 2-barrel and using
lacquer thinner for the soak!
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Default Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem

On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 05:41:16 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:

On Apr 19, 11:00*am, dpb wrote:
Manjo wrote:
I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. *...

...
The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. *This spring it
started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at
proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20
seconds.


I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm
fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank,
and the gasket between the carb and the engine. *I've also
disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine
when the throttle is tuned full off. *But after doing all this the
engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds.


Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments.


I've not read the rest of the thread but noted you were apparently still
searching --

Anybody suggested checking the exhaust screen (I'm assuming it has one)
for C deposits? *Sounds like it could be clogged w/ buildup which will
cause such symptoms...

--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


The exhaust has not been checked. I did put my hand near the exhaust
canister and I could feel puffs of air as the engine ran at normal
rpm. But now that you mention this, the air pressure felt a little
low or soft. I'll pull the can and check it today. Manjo


Really, take a good look at it. I had a string trimmer with similar
start/die problems, that I spent weeks on. Rebuilt the fuel pump, etc.
Then I cleaned the 'spark suppressor' screen, and it's run perfectly
since.

I've since been told that running small engines at less than WOT will
load them up with carbon.

George
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On Apr 29, 10:26 pm, George wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 05:41:16 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:



On Apr 19, 11:00 am, dpb wrote:
Manjo wrote:
I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. ...
...
The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. This spring it
started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at
proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20
seconds.


I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm
fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank,
and the gasket between the carb and the engine. I've also
disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine
when the throttle is tuned full off. But after doing all this the
engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds.


Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments.


I've not read the rest of the thread but noted you were apparently still
searching --


Anybody suggested checking the exhaust screen (I'm assuming it has one)
for C deposits? Sounds like it could be clogged w/ buildup which will
cause such symptoms...


--- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


The exhaust has not been checked. I did put my hand near the exhaust
canister and I could feel puffs of air as the engine ran at normal
rpm. But now that you mention this, the air pressure felt a little
low or soft. I'll pull the can and check it today. Manjo


Really, take a good look at it. I had a string trimmer with similar
start/die problems, that I spent weeks on. Rebuilt the fuel pump, etc.
Then I cleaned the 'spark suppressor' screen, and it's run perfectly
since.

I've since been told that running small engines at less than WOT will
load them up with carbon.

George


Geo, this is a 4-cycle, I know...the thread is a little long!


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Those screens need to be drilled out and thrown away. We had EVERY one we
ever bought clog WITH the proper mix and all day WOT use.


steve


"George" wrote in message
...

Really, take a good look at it. I had a string trimmer with similar
start/die problems, that I spent weeks on. Rebuilt the fuel pump, etc.
Then I cleaned the 'spark suppressor' screen, and it's run perfectly
since.

I've since been told that running small engines at less than WOT will
load them up with carbon.

George



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