Tim Schwartz wrote in message
...
N Cook wrote:
Tim Schwartz wrote in message
...
N Cook wrote:
On 1993 Arcam Delta 290 amp, for R/C use and also manual front panel
knob.
Before I take the whole amp apart to remove it.
Poor switch contacts. Has anyone taken one apart to renovate or even
just
clean them, any hidden traps? odd springs, awkward indexing or
anything?
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
Nigel,
I've worked on many of these. The switches don't come apart easily,
and often get damaged just removing them from the board, which you
would
have to do to take one apart. My experience is that they don't hold up
for more than a few months if you spray them out. You can put some
contact cleaner or lubricant on the new switch if you like, and that
may
help it last longer than the original one.
Arcam still has them in stock, part number A1207. E-mail them at
.
Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics
But any specific hidden hazards beyond taking any switch or pot apart ?
As its an otherwise unpopulated area of board I intend hot-air gunning
it
off.
Also intend taking apart to renovate, presumably cleaning off CuS
corrosion
going by other parts in the amp, rather than happy-squirting and
original
part replacement would be a back-stop.
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
Nigel,
Nope, as I recall you can unbend the front tabs and remove the front
metal casting with the motor drive. The individual wafers can be
unclipped. Just mind the positions of everything, as it is possible to
to get a section 180 degrees out of phase with the others. I'd clean
out the old goo with alcohol on a cotton swab, use a synthetic oil and
reassemble. I've done it once or twice, and it is a 2 hour job, making
the new switch seem cheap. Occasionally, some of the pins on the switch
will break off as you remove the switch from the board, and then you
need a scrap switch to make one good one, if the pin is used.
The board is double sided with plated through holes, so be careful when
removing it not to pull out the plate through holes.
Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics
That was the easy part, no one said anything about replacing it back onto
the board.
What has round pin sockets of .156 inch spacing , 2 row , staggered ?
If it was symmetric you could line it up on the other side of the board.
So either engineer a gauge plate with 41 holes , .156 in spacing in 7 rows
staggered .
or drill 2 holes in the pcb to allow rotational symmetry and lining up on
the reverse side of the board.
or put pins in all the pcb holes and caste a gauge plate in epoxy or
something
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/