On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 22:03:06 +0000, John wrote:

I picked up about 15ft of Holly at the weekend about 15in diameter, its
now split down the middle and in shorter lengths. I have applied
Endseal.

Any suggestion on handling would be appreciated, When first cut some of
the ends almost instantly went green, so i hope to preserve it as white
if i can .

Cut and sticker as fast as possible.
Remove discolored pieces to separate area ASAP, fungal transfer like
spalting.
Use citric acid - lemon juice to bleach.
Holly is extremely sensitive to iron stain, avoid iron and steel contact.
Wash hands before handling, pay attention when working the wood to avoid
hand residue transfer.

A few links supporting my experience with Holly.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/
Holly_Staining_Fungus_or_Pigment.html

http://books.google.com/books?id=tXWTf-
UebDIC&pg=PA78&lpg=PA78&dq=woodturning+holly
+discolor&source=web&ots=oHWl54dtHO&sig=-
GwYW6kjkEN01Bmu0UJYN5_2LLg&hl=en#PPA78,M1

http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/page25.html

http://www.woodturns.com/articles/wood/holly.htm


I felled a 20ft high, 16in diameter tree affecting a neighbors fence last
year and got a reasonable yield. None of it was as white as I can
purchase but I use thin pieces for accents and with lemon bleaching it is
usable.

My supplier must be getting Northern grown Holly because I don't get as
drastic discolorations when working purchased vs. locally cut. (Or maybe
the store's isn't even Holly. I been sold the "wrong" wood many times
before. It can be difficult to determine species in small penblank or
turning block sizes.)

Be careful with the citric acid. It can bleach other woods and can
"bleed" into other woods when doing marquetry. Dry the bleached piece
thoroughly before glue-up next to contrasting (dark) porous woods.

For tool stain transfer issues I use mineral oil on metal tool surfaces.
This reduces/prevents rust and is easy to notice when it contacts your
hands vs. iron transfer which just makes your hands look dirty. When/if
your hands get oily, it reminds you to wash them before handling the
workpiece.

I plan on doing some tests adding dry citric acid to the finish before
applying. Citric acid is used regularly to neutralize and brighten
exterior decking after chemical cleaners are used which darken the wood.
It is also used in pulp and paper production as a whitener and
neutralizer.

If you can't "fix" the problem, turn it into an opportunity and spalt it.
Spalted Holly can be quite figurative, nearly burl-like vs. the more
"waterspot stained" look of spalted maple, etc..
http://www.milburnguitars.com/shollyrose1.html
http://www.milburnguitars.com/shollyrose2.html
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/te...alted_wood.pdf

One of many wood picture identification sites on the web:
http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/person...pics/holly.htm

My purchased Holly is as white as the pen blanks in the link above,
although I noticed a few suppliers I've used in the past now present a
tan picture for Holly .

Just for fun.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki....aspx?id=30406
http://www.chrysaliswoodworks.com/im...os/IMG0025.htm
http://www.marquetry.org/int_photos2.htm

And one of my favorite wood artists, self taught, started by selling
simple wood boxes at street fairs:
http://www.primaveraart.com/pages/po...ollection.html
http://www.hollyollivander.com/poshunleong/pgift.html
http://www.poshunleong.com/