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[email protected] hallerb@aol.com is offline
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Default Quick basic advice on a dripping gas 40-gal hot-water heater

On Feb 18, 11:42�am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
wrote:
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 09:18:04 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
If you try to remove it next year, you should be able to do it


Good point. We should remove the anode every year so that it *can* be
removed when it comes time to replace it with a similarly sized one.

One thing we still need to do is attach the drainage pipe from the
Temperature & Pressure valve to near the floor in case of an overflow.http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274211119/

Is the drain pipe mandatory (can we just leave it off)?

It seems to me a drain pipe *should* be mandatory because you don't want
hot water spewing forth at eye level. However, due to configuration
changes, even with the taller tank, the old drainage tube is too long and
too close to the tank so we can't just screw the old one in. We have to
modify it somehow to make it shorter and move it away from the wood base.

QUESTION:
How many inches ABOVE the garage floor should it end?http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2030/...c9df0f48_m.jpg

If we can end ABOVE the 18 inch wooden platform, that would be easier.
If we have to end six or so inches above the garage cement floor, that
would necessitate an elbow to get past the wooden base but it seems a
horizontal line can clog causing a safety hazard.

I googled but did not find any specs as to HOW MANY INCHES above either the
floor or better yet, the wooden platform, that a drain pipe must terminate..

Can someone recommend a solution?

Thanks
Donna


new plastic [pipe and fitting will repace the drain line easily.......
no biggie

replace the galvanized all of it before it leaks and causes mold ,
structural damage or a flood.

it will fix all flow issues and make your home more valuable