"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote in
message
$ 9.59 3/4-inch quarter-turn water valve (replaces plastic drain valve)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch CSA gas ball valve (for the gas line)
$ 15.99 3/4-inch swing check valve (for additional heat-loss protection)
$ 7.99 18" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 7.49 15" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 5.99 12" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 12.99 18" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 10.99 12" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch Dialectric Union B (x4)
$ 3.59 1.5-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x4)
$ 2.39 1.0-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x3)
$ 52.32 sales tax at 8.25%
--------
$686.47 total

Could have saved a bundle on those items from a real plumbing supply. Only
difference, they usually have a 15% restocking charges for returns.


..

Do we really need to isolate the copper from the brass from the steel?
We assume so.

Copper and brass are compatible. Brass is made with copper as an ingredient.



Also, we bought the extra one-way check valve even though the water heater
apparently comes with heat-loss protectors and we can s-kink the flex
lines
(not the steel lines, just the copper lines).


Don't need both. Careful putting an S bend as there is a minimum radius for
them.




Note we didn't buy the insulating blanket for the water heater, nor the
insulation for the hot-water pipes yet. We figured we could do that later.


Won't really help much with todays's well insulated heaters.


Our biggest question is whether we really needed the dialectric unions.
Since they were female:female, that necessitated brass nipples on each
side, further lengthening the lines which we need to shorten.

What do you think?
Donna & Bill

If you have copper/steel you need them.