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Mike Dobony Mike Dobony is offline
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Default Repairing Sagging Drywall in Ceiling

On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 05:51:48 -0800 (PST), RicodJour wrote:

On Feb 14, 9:18 pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
Jeff B wrote:
In the middle of my kitchen reno and while working in my attic, I
discovered that 1 or 2 full sheets of drywall in my living room are
sagging badly. Apparently the construction adhesive used 30 yrs ago
simply dried up and lost its hold. Since they used nails not screws
in the 1970s to attach the drywall to the rafters, there wasn't much
to keep it up. At the lowest spot, the gap between the drywall and
rafter was about 3/4"!! From inside the attic, I could slide 1/2 my
hand into the gap! I figured the whole thing would collapse from its
own weight any minute. I raced to HD and propped it up with a bunch
of 2x4s. My living room looks like a circus tent.


Getting it supported was step 1. I now need to figure out step
2...repair. Replacing all of that ceiling drywall is NOT the
preferred option. My attic has about 18" of loose, powdery, blown-in
insulation. Moving that stuff around is a nasty job. I don't believe
the drywall is cracked anywhere. It simply sagged as a full sheet (or
2 sheets). I'm hoping that getting it flush to the rafters with the
2x4s and then using LOTS of drywall screws will keep it up there for
another 20 years. With the loose insulation, getting adhesive in the
gap before screwing up will be difficult if not impossible.


Anyone have experience dealing with this problem?


--Jeff


Regarding dry wall / wall board screws, for sagging ceiling wall board, I
a vague memory (hey, at my advanced age all I have are vague memories)
of a thin wide diameter vinyl / nylon "washer" that slips over the shaft
of a dry wall screw
and gets driven against the wallboard, spreading out the "force", if you
will,
of the screw head against thin wallboard.

Obviously, you have to look at a thick "kock down" type texture to cover
the "washer".

But that might be a way of avoiding screw heads "pulling through" the
wallboard and going in too deep, leaving the OP with no effective holding
power on the possibly too thin and sagged ceiling.

I *think* I saw this on some TOH show, with the Tom guy usig it as a repair
aid on a plaster ceiling, but it should work on wallboard, too.


Good suggestion. http://www.kilianhardware.com/ceilbutplasw.html

R


I would not use this on standard drywall as it will require a very thick
coating of mud as a skim coat. You would need to use the green board for
this. If concerned about nail pops, then do 5 screws in the field and make
sure you use either the dimpling bit
http://www.renovationadvice.com/tools/drywall_tools.htm or a real screw gun
with a positive depth setting clutch, not the drill torque clutch.