Once again, late to a thread.

Things to look into when considering a chuck

1. Mechanism for tightening and loosening the jaws

TWO tomy bars means there's no hand to hold the
part being chucked while the jaws are snugged to
it and then tightened. If you have a spindle lock
on your lathe then you only need to use one
tomy bar and have another to hold the piece in
which case this isn't an issue.

A jacobs chuck key (either a short one like used
on a drill press or on the end of a long T-handle)
permits one hand tightening and loosening of the
jaws - without the need for a spindle lock. BUT -
and there always seems to be a "but" - this type
of key only works when the long axis of the key
goes in square to the long axis of the chuck - on
a jacobs chuck or a lathe chuck. There are
times - on some forms - where that isn't possible.
THAT is a limiting factor for chuck keys.

A normal straight T-handled allen wrench mechanism
has the same problem as the T-handled chuck key.
However, a "ball end" allen wrench lets you tighten
the jaws with the wrench angled back some towards
the back of the chuck. This capability may not
ever be used, but having it and not needing it is
better than needing it and not having it.

2. Lathes don't all have the same spindle size or
threading. A chuck that has spindle adapters
available to fit it and adapt to various spindle
diameters and threads will allow you to buy
just one adapter and keep using your chuck
on any lathe you may get later.

3. Jaw Sets - How many and what gripping size ranges
are available.

If you really want to bang your head on the wall,
turn a nice form with a tenon on the end to hold
it in your chuck - and then find that none of your
jaw sets will hold it for hollowing. Ideally, having
sets that cover the full range, min to max - with
NO GAPS - is REALLY nice to have.

4. Jaw Sets - how easy are they to change?

On the "borrowed from a metal lathe" chuck
you have to scroll one set of jaws off then
scroll another set on - and starting from
the right location and in the right order.
Make a mistake on either and the jaws
either won't close on center or won't close
at all. THAT is a real PITA

On the "designed specifically for a wood lathe"
chuck, the jaws attach to the chuck with allen
head screws - one or two screws depending
on the type of jaw. Makes changing jaws
a bit easier, faster and a little more idiot proof
(the latter very important if you sometimes
fall into Idiot Mode - ok, so I'm the only one
who does dumb things -occassionaly)

5. Jaw Sets - can you put them on anywhere
or does Jaw #1 HAVE TO GO ON IN POSITION
#1 ON THE CHUCK

Don't know about other chucks, but the
SuperNova2 jaws are each numbered and
have to be put on their right location. Note
that at least one set of jaws I have have
simple center punch marks to indicate the
jaw number - one dot for #1, two dots for
#2 and so on. THAT is a minor PITA. All
the other jaw sets have their number
stamped in the underside of the jaw.

6. Jaw Sets - are most if not all the jaws you
have for this chuck fit the other chucks
the manufacturer/company makes?

You WILL get additional jaw sets over time
and may end up with ALL the jaw sets
available for your first chuck. While
the price of the original chuck seems
like the big ticket item, the price of
all the additional jaw sets will equal or
exceed the initial chuck price.

7. Does ANYTHING protrude from the outside
of the chuck? If so, anything that does
WILL wack you on the knuckles - at least
once.

8. Are there ANY sharp edges or sharp corners
ANYWHERE that can (and will) make contact
with any part of your body - while installing,
removing or using the chuck?

9. Are the interior moving parts protected
from dust, dirt, oils, waxes, blood, insects,
pitch, sap, . . . A chuck that works
smooth and flawless when right out of the
box - but binds and chunks in use is nice
to look at but a PITA to use over time.

10. Does the chuck have built in Indexing?

Being able to index the chuck, even if you
don't think you need that capability now,
will give you the option later.

Some chucks have indexing holes or slots
on the rear outside of the chuck and some
have them on the back face of the chuck.
Being able to get to them from the top
makes it easier to add an indexing pin
to your lathe than adding one from behind
the chuck.

11. The quality of the steel in the moving
parts and the precision of their machining.

Good steel holds up - crappy steel doesn't.
If the mechanism is machined steel rather
than cast iron and then machined, it will
hold up, trouble free for year and years.
Machined cast iron won't.

Some of these things you can see, some you can't.
It's the reputation of the company that tell
you something about parts you can't see.
If you've never heard of the maker, or the
outfit that carries it won't stand behind the
chuck you're screwed if anything is wrong
or goes wrong with the chuck.

Just what you needed right - more decisons to
make. Sorry - but knowledge is power.

charlie b

Disclosu I have two SN2 chucks and ALL the
jaw sets for that chuck. I have no financial
connection to the maker, wholesaler or
retailer of the SuperNova2 and paid the
store price for the chucks and jaw sets.
I use them on a JET mini/midi and haven't
turned anything bigger than 9" in diameter
nor taller than about 6 inches.