Terry wrote:
On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 09:55:08 -0600, bud--
wrote:

wrote:
(From Beta-33,34,35 -- from a different computer using Google Groups -
yuck)

This probably doesn't help, but when I did the continuity check a long
time
ago, this is what I found:

I tested for continuity with all wires disconnected at both 3-way
switches
and with the hallway lightbulb not in the socket.

At the 3-way switch at the bottom of the steps, I numbered the 3 wires
as 1,
2, and 3.

At the 3-way switch at the top of the stairs, I found wires with
continuity
with two of the downstairs wires, and numbered them as 1 and 2 (the
wires
they connect with downstairs). I numbered the third wire on the
upstairs
3-way as number 4.

At the hallway light, I numbered the wires as 3 and 4. Number 3 has
continuity with number 3 on the downstairs 3-way switch, and number 4
has
continuity with number 4 on the upstairs 3-way switch.

If measured right, some 3-ways were connected as your measurements
indicate. Either 1 or 2 is the neutral, the other is the hot (the blue
wires on Terry's diagram). The odd color on the switch goes to 3 and 4.
In operation each side of the light is switched between hot and neutral.
When both sides of the light were neutral, or both hot, the light is
off. It is not code compliant to wire a new light this way now, but
3-ways sometimes were wired this way long ago. [Anyone know if it was
ever code compliant?]

Probably harder to troubleshoot because the open connection may be
further away - it affects the hot feed to both 3-ways.

-------------
You may have noticed halerb has a fethish about K&T.

So what you are saying is he could have this: (The "Lazy Susan"
switching arrangement)

http://i29.tinypic.com/2ebs4ck.jpg

Yup. The continuity measurements fit that circuit assuming all wires
read a few ohms max.


So he should be looking for a splice in the two wires that go between
each switch.

But not between the switches. A bad connection from a hot to the wiring
connecting the switches.


I don't know how close you have been following the thread, but he used
an inductance pocket tester and has verified that no wire is hot at
either switch or at the light.

I believe the voltage tester uses capacitance coupling to the wire.

*IF* the tester is sensitive enough to provide an indication when 3 or 4
inches from a hot wire, BETA might be able to trace the wire with the
voltage tester. That requires making the dead wire hot. Kill any circuit
that may possibly have originally fed the light. Bring power to the
switch location with an extension cord. Connect a small light bulb (like
with a pigtail socket) to the extension cord hot. Connect the other side
the light bulb to wire 1 then 2. The light bulb should light up when
connected to the neutral (an alternate method of finding the neutral to
RBM's post). Connect the light bulb to the other wire, which should be
the wire that no longer connects to the building hot. Trace the wire
through the walls with the voltage tester. This has worked for me on
occasion. But don't try it unless you understand how it works and the
significant safety issues. And check that the voltage tester is
sensitive enough (in ceilings you may need more than 4 inch sensitivity).

For one K&T problem I cut at least 6 holes in a ceiling so I could
insert a voltage tester and mirror to follow the wire. K&T can be a pain.


I am starting to get a K&T fetish.


Geez - you and hallerb could start a club.

--
bud--