wrote in message
...
On Feb 3, 12:20?pm, Terry wrote:
I was trying to find some guidelines by searching the web on the
proper way to repair knob and tube. ?The more I read about it, the
less confident I feel about doing anything to it.
If you can safety get a hot and a neutral to the light from somewhere
else then it sounds like the light can be fixed.
If your readings are correct, then the electrician made a mistake
wiring the lights to begin with. ?
This sketch sounds like what you have.
http://i26.tinypic.com/nvysuc.jpg
You should connect the (new) neutral to the screw shell of the light.
Connect the (new) hot to one of the wires going to one of the switches
and the other wire from the other switch to the light.
Maybe someone with some real K&T experience can jump in and offer a
better solution or point out a flaw in my logic.
On Sun, 3 Feb 2008 07:08:19 -0800 (PST), wrote:
(From Beta-33,34,35 -- from a different computer using Google Groups -
yuck)
This probably doesn't help, but when I did the continuity check a long
time
ago, this is what I found:
I tested for continuity with all wires disconnected at both 3-way
switches
and with the hallway lightbulb not in the socket.
At the 3-way switch at the bottom of the steps, I numbered the 3 wires
as 1,
2, and 3.
At the 3-way switch at the top of the stairs, I found wires with
continuity
with two of the downstairs wires, and numbered them as 1 and 2 (the
wires
they connect with downstairs). ?I numbered the third wire on the
upstairs
3-way as number 4.
At the hallway light, I numbered the wires as 3 and 4. ?Number 3 has
continuity with number 3 on the downstairs 3-way switch, and number 4
has
continuity with number 4 on the upstairs 3-way switch.
On Feb 2, 7:48?pm, Terry wrote:
Yeah I think a whole new circuit sounds best too.
To run a new circuit, you may still have to remove the same boards you
are removing now, though.
You might get lucky and find an easy fix. ? How have you been living?
On Sat, 2 Feb 2008 19:15:45 -0500, "BETA-33" wrote:
Thanks Terry for starting this thread.
I'll have to check the various suggestions out a little more on
Tuesday.
Between now
and then I won't be home while it's daylight outside, and I want to be
able
to see everything with and without the power on, and without having to
use a
flashlight.
I went into the attic this morning, and part of the floor is already
up from
when I was working on it before. ?But I have to take one more board up
to
access directly above the light fixture, and I didn't have time to do
that
today.
I have a hunch that I'm going to end up doing as some have
suggested -- ?
start over and run a whole new circuit. ?But, since it's a puzzle
right now,
I want to get better access to the light fixture from the attic above,
and
try to see if I can find a solution to the puzzle.
"Terry" wrote in message
.. .
Anyone care to help BETA-33 get his hallway light working.
Here is what he says he has with no power on anything.
(Knob & Tube)
Light with 2 wires
S1 3-way with 3 wires
S2 3-way with 3 wires
I know nothing about knob and tube. ?I am assuming that at one time
it
worked with what he has. ?(knowing this may not be true)
So..........
The light would have to contain the neutral (coming from anywhere)
and
a wire coming from S2
S2 will have the wire going to the light and 2 wires coming from S1
S1 will have 2 wires going to S2 and a dead wire that should be
coming
from a source (coming from anywhere)
Does this sound right?
I would think he could look in the attic and be able to see the wire
going from the light to S2
So he should also be able to see the two wires going from S1 to S2.
That leaves the third wire coming from S1. ?That wire should be the
one going to a power source.
http://i29.tinypic.com/draz9h.jpg
This sketch is a common arrangement. ?Maybe you will have something
similar and can tell where the red wire is going.- Hide quoted
text -
- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
K&T is best replaced few DIYers have the tools and expertise to do it
exactly right, and few electricians will do anything to it for
liability reasons, plus many insurance companies dont want to insure
homes with it.
a electrical system is really a appliance, thats now probably a 100
years old.
how many appliances last a 100 years?
Yea, that's it, it's kinda like a toaster, or maybe a percolator.... I get
it now