Thanks. I'll have to check this out a little more on Tuesday. Between now
and then I won't be home while it's daylight outside when I can see
everything with and without the power on.

I went into the attic this morning, and part of the floor is already up from
when I was working on it before. But I have to take another board up to
access above the light, and I didn't have time to do that today.

I didn't see the other thread that Terry started on this, but I'll go there
now.

"bud--" wrote in message
...
There are 2 ways a 3-way might be connected with K&T. In both, 2 wires go
between the 3-way switches. And at one end the 3rd wire goes to the light
socket connection to the end of the light bulbs.

==================
In one way of wiring, the 3rd wire at the other switch goes to the other
(screwshell) terminal at the light sockets. This is not a good way to wire
a light.

==================
The other (more likely and preferred) way of wiring a 3-way, the other
wire at the 2nd switch does not connect to the light socket. **This will
be the hot feed to trace.

(With both wiring methods the 2 wires between the switches connect to the
same-colored terminals on the 3-way switches.)

======================
Don't know if you noticed - Terry started a 2nd thread on this 2-1.

--
bud--


BETA-33 wrote:
Thanks. A long time ago, I did use a continuity checker and tagged each
of the 3 wires for each 3-way switch and the two wires for the light
fixture. I have them numbered so that #1 on one end is directly
connected to #1 on the other end, etc. Of course, after I did that, I
had no idea what to do with the information.

And, no, there are no 4-way switches -- just two 3-way switches.

I remembered long ago there were 3 switches and didn't want to go back
through the thread to check. So there should be 2 switches.


"bud--" wrote in message
.. .
Attic and basement are real good ideas. Your new toy should be a big
help.

If you get stuck, another method of attack is check continuity between
possible ends of wires to see what the actual wiring is. Include the
light sockets. (I would also verify the socket screwshell connects to
the neutral.) When measuring continuity you have to watch there is not
voltage between the wires. If you don't have a good understanding of
3-way and 4-way switches (one of the switches was 4-way?) this method
may not help. If you work out what the wiring is you can determine which
wire should be the hot feed and trace it. K&T wiring problems can be a
PITA.

--
bud--


BETA-33 wrote:
I will be heading for the attic in a day or two, especially now that I
have the tester.

Both 3-ways have only 3 wires and it doesn't look like any wiring was
removed from either one. It all looks like the dusty old original
wiring, and the switches I took out and replaced look like they were
the original switches -- ancient.

"Terry" wrote in message
...
That sounds right. If you can see the wiring from the attic or
basement would be the next place to go for clues.

Trying to re feed the switch from another circuit sounds like the only
way to continue.

Do each 3-ways have only 3 wires? Does it look like wiring has been
removed from any of the boxes?