"Victory" wrote in message
...
OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and
the
one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it
lying
there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery
"+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the
pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags
should
be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms
connected
between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This
resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED
can
draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out.

http://davidd.250free.com/resistor2.gif

Ok, I have two wire setups here.
1) The first one in light GREEN is the one that works great for
turning the LED off and on, but does NOT dim or brighten it. I have
tried this setup and it works.
2) The second setup in RED is one that works great for dimming and
brightening of the LED - but does NOT turn off/on

The trouble now is getting them to work in combination so I can have
it dim and turn off/on. As I said, I have tried both of these setup
and then tried to mix and match the setup to see if I could get both
the bright/dim and the off/on to work at the SAME TIME, but to no
avail.

I have not used a resistor for either of these setup because when I
connect the TWO batteries directly to the LED (the way I have been
using it before the variable resistor), it has never been a problem
and doesn't get hot or burn out.



Ah! OK. Now I can see what the two additional terminals on the pot are. They
are a switch, which presumably goes "click" when you go fully anticlockwise,
yes ?

Assuming yes, then the correct hookup will be right hand side yellow to mid
body righthand tag, as shown. New wire from left hand mid body tag to
righthand tag of the block of three tags, ie the tag where you are currently
showing a red wire on the right. Lefthand red wire where it is currently
shown ie to the centre and left tags that are joined together. Lefthand
yellow wire now irrelevant. Bottom red or yellow wire as currently
indicated.

Now, when the pot is clicked fully anticlockwise, the feed from the battery
to the righthand pot tag, will be broken by the switch, so no current will
flow through the LED, and it will extinguish. Once the switch has clicked
back on, as you rotate clockwise, you will be returned to the 'red' circuit
that worked ok to dim the LED. Do you follow that OK ?

As far as not having any additional series resistor, if that's the way it
was done in the original unit that you canibalised it from, then that's
fine. I would however suggest that you do not use any other battery type
than the originals, as it probably gets away with current limiting by the
internal resistance of this type of cell. Whilst the LED may have its own
internal current limiting, from the photo, it looks like a pretty
bog-standard type, which if you do allow it to draw too much current, will
destroy itself.

Incidentally, your post appeared multiple times on my news server, separated
by a couple of minutes each, so I'm not too sure what happened there.

Arfa