Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#41
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
On Jan 26, 5:51 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote: "Victory" wrote in message ... I forgot to add - with the 12v, the LED went all the way to it brightest and dimmest while turning the resistor. It was perfect, but with the 5V, it peaked near the top of the resistors turn, and then started to burn out. Not sure why with 5V it would burn out, but with 12V it did not. And exactly what led you (no pun intended !) to this odd conclusion? I can't think of any practical or theoretical reason why this should have been the case. 12v and full range control, yes, no problem. 5v, and range of control bunched up one end. Yes, no problem. Then it was "burning out" ? What was, the pot or the LED ? If the pot, then I don't know why it should have been giving trouble at the lower voltage rather than the higher, but it does rather neatly underline the problems that can occur when you use a simple pot to control DC, rather than adding a 'helper' transistor as I suggested *might* be a good idea. Arfa Victory wrote: At the highschool it was on one of those 'tester' boards with different voltages and such. Top post clipped for clarity Possibly the 12 volt output was current limited and the 5 v not so Ron(UK) |
#42
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Ron(UK)" wrote in message ... On Jan 26, 5:51 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote: "Victory" wrote in message ... I forgot to add - with the 12v, the LED went all the way to it brightest and dimmest while turning the resistor. It was perfect, but with the 5V, it peaked near the top of the resistors turn, and then started to burn out. Not sure why with 5V it would burn out, but with 12V it did not. And exactly what led you (no pun intended !) to this odd conclusion? I can't think of any practical or theoretical reason why this should have been the case. 12v and full range control, yes, no problem. 5v, and range of control bunched up one end. Yes, no problem. Then it was "burning out" ? What was, the pot or the LED ? If the pot, then I don't know why it should have been giving trouble at the lower voltage rather than the higher, but it does rather neatly underline the problems that can occur when you use a simple pot to control DC, rather than adding a 'helper' transistor as I suggested *might* be a good idea. Arfa Victory wrote: At the highschool it was on one of those 'tester' boards with different voltages and such. Top post clipped for clarity Possibly the 12 volt output was current limited and the 5 v not so Ron(UK) Hmmm. It's a thought, Ron, but we're only talking a pretty small current draw here, and I'd be surprised if any current limiting on a schools type power supply would have the 'delicacy of touch' required to be able to limit the current to something tha would not burn out a white LED i.e. less than 30mA perhaps ? Arfa |
#43
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
Arfa Daily wrote:
"Ron(UK)" wrote in message ... On Jan 26, 5:51 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote: "Victory" wrote in message ... I forgot to add - with the 12v, the LED went all the way to it brightest and dimmest while turning the resistor. It was perfect, but with the 5V, it peaked near the top of the resistors turn, and then started to burn out. Not sure why with 5V it would burn out, but with 12V it did not. And exactly what led you (no pun intended !) to this odd conclusion? I can't think of any practical or theoretical reason why this should have been the case. 12v and full range control, yes, no problem. 5v, and range of control bunched up one end. Yes, no problem. Then it was "burning out" ? What was, the pot or the LED ? If the pot, then I don't know why it should have been giving trouble at the lower voltage rather than the higher, but it does rather neatly underline the problems that can occur when you use a simple pot to control DC, rather than adding a 'helper' transistor as I suggested *might* be a good idea. Arfa Victory wrote: At the highschool it was on one of those 'tester' boards with different voltages and such. Top post clipped for clarity Possibly the 12 volt output was current limited and the 5 v not so Ron(UK) Hmmm. It's a thought, Ron, but we're only talking a pretty small current draw here, and I'd be surprised if any current limiting on a schools type power supply would have the 'delicacy of touch' required to be able to limit the current to something tha would not burn out a white LED i.e. less than 30mA perhaps ? Arfa I suspect 78L12 & 79L12 for powering the board's 'opamp' module and 7805 (or maybe 78M05) for logic. What is a 78L series good for when its gone into foldback limiting? Now a *proper* school lab PSU is probably good for something like 25V adjustable at well over 10A. I have fond memories of cutting tin plate with a carbon arc using a 3B pencil, two such lab PSUs strapped in parallel and a whopping great inductor wound with silk covered wire with a bundle of soft iron wire as its core, mounted on a beautifull piece of varnished mahogany, with *massive* brass thumbscrew terminals in series to stabilise the arc. *AHH...* the joys of a physics lab supervised by a newly qualified substitute teacher . . . . :-) Didn't pay to get a 74xx logic chip in the breadboard backwards, the 5V bench supply was rated for something like 200A (it was a 4 foot high cabinet with fan cooling at the front of the room and each row of benches had a 30A thermal circuit breaker). A dead short would melt your hookup wire quite easily before the breaker tripped and a reversed chip would melt itself into the breadboard. SMELL that smoldering PVC insulation . . . -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL: |
#44
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
Ok, I hope someone can help me out with this. I went out and bought a
1k variable resistor. I took a picture of the setup and I would love it if someone could take photoshop or paint and connect the dots for me and therefore I will know where to put the wires. The LED doesn't have any specs and the batteries are TWO 3V button batteries in series. I have tried connecting it myself and all I can get is the light "on and off", but it doesn't dim or get brighter. I have also bought a bunch of trim pots (really really small) - these radio shack trim pots aren't a problem - I have tested and hooked them up to the LED. Turning the turning the dial to dims and brightened the LED. BUT when I try the 1k resistor, because it has the EXTRA hooks up (5 instead of 3 that are in the trim pots), I am not sure how to make it work. Here is the picture : http://davidd.250free.com/resistor.gif Thanks again. I know that I am probably asking rudimentary questions, but I am learning along the way. Thanks for the patience. On Jan 27, 12:28 am, Ian Malcolm wrote: Arfa Daily wrote: "Ron(UK)" wrote in message ... On Jan 26, 5:51 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote: "Victory" wrote in message ... I forgot to add - with the 12v, the LED went all the way to it brightest and dimmest while turning the resistor. It was perfect, but with the 5V, it peaked near the top of the resistors turn, and then started to burn out. Not sure why with 5V it would burn out, but with 12V it did not. And exactly what led you (no pun intended !) to this odd conclusion? I can't think of any practical or theoretical reason why this should have been the case. 12v and full range control, yes, no problem. 5v, and range of control bunched up one end. Yes, no problem. Then it was "burning out" ? What was, the pot or the LED ? If the pot, then I don't know why it should have been giving trouble at the lower voltage rather than the higher, but it does rather neatly underline the problems that can occur when you use a simple pot to control DC, rather than adding a 'helper' transistor as I suggested *might* be a good idea. Arfa Victory wrote: At the highschool it was on one of those 'tester' boards with different voltages and such. Top post clipped for clarity Possibly the 12 volt output was current limited and the 5 v not so Ron(UK) Hmmm. It's a thought, Ron, but we're only talking a pretty small current draw here, and I'd be surprised if any current limiting on a schools type power supply would have the 'delicacy of touch' required to be able to limit the current to something tha would not burn out a white LED i.e. less than 30mA perhaps ? Arfa I suspect 78L12 & 79L12 for powering the board's 'opamp' module and 7805 (or maybe 78M05) for logic. What is a 78L series good for when its gone into foldback limiting? Now a *proper* school lab PSU is probably good for something like 25V adjustable at well over 10A. I have fond memories of cutting tin plate with a carbon arc using a 3B pencil, two such lab PSUs strapped in parallel and a whopping great inductor wound with silk covered wire with a bundle of soft iron wire as its core, mounted on a beautifull piece of varnished mahogany, with *massive* brass thumbscrew terminals in series to stabilise the arc. *AHH...* the joys of a physics lab supervised by a newly qualified substitute teacher . . . . :-) Didn't pay to get a 74xx logic chip in the breadboard backwards, the 5V bench supply was rated for something like 200A (it was a 4 foot high cabinet with fan cooling at the front of the room and each row of benches had a 30A thermal circuit breaker). A dead short would melt your hookup wire quite easily before the breaker tripped and a reversed chip would melt itself into the breadboard. SMELL that smoldering PVC insulation . . . -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL: |
#45
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Victory" wrote in message ... Ok, I hope someone can help me out with this. I went out and bought a 1k variable resistor. I took a picture of the setup and I would love it if someone could take photoshop or paint and connect the dots for me and therefore I will know where to put the wires. The LED doesn't have any specs and the batteries are TWO 3V button batteries in series. I have tried connecting it myself and all I can get is the light "on and off", but it doesn't dim or get brighter. I have also bought a bunch of trim pots (really really small) - these radio shack trim pots aren't a problem - I have tested and hooked them up to the LED. Turning the turning the dial to dims and brightened the LED. BUT when I try the 1k resistor, because it has the EXTRA hooks up (5 instead of 3 that are in the trim pots), I am not sure how to make it work. Here is the picture : http://davidd.250free.com/resistor.gif Thanks again. I know that I am probably asking rudimentary questions, but I am learning along the way. Thanks for the patience. OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and the one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it lying there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery "+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags should be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms connected between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED can draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out. Can I just ask that you post replies to the bottom of any text that you are replying to, rather than the top, as you would when replying to a personal e-mail. It makes the thread a lot easier to follow, and whilst there are a few that vociferously defend newsgroup top-posting, the accepted convention is to bottom post, with top snipping if needed to aid clarity. Thanks. Arfa |
#46
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and the
one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it lying there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery "+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags should be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms connected between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED can draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out. http://davidd.250free.com/resistor2.gif Ok, I have two wire setups here. 1) The first one in light GREEN is the one that works great for turning the LED off and on, but does NOT dim or brighten it. I have tried this setup and it works. 2) The second setup in RED is one that works great for dimming and brightening of the LED - but does NOT turn off/on The trouble now is getting them to work in combination so I can have it dim and turn off/on. As I said, I have tried both of these setup and then tried to mix and match the setup to see if I could get both the bright/dim and the off/on to work at the SAME TIME, but to no avail. I have not used a resistor for either of these setup because when I connect the TWO batteries directly to the LED (the way I have been using it before the variable resistor), it has never been a problem and doesn't get hot or burn out. Can I just ask that you post replies to the bottom of any text that you are replying to, rather than the top, as you would when replying to a personal e-mail. It makes the thread a lot easier to follow, and whilst there are a few that vociferously defend newsgroup top-posting, the accepted convention is to bottom post, with top snipping if needed to aid clarity. Thanks. Arfa |
#47
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and the
one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it lying there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery "+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags should be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms connected between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED can draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out. http://davidd.250free.com/resistor2.gif Ok, I have two wire setups here. 1) The first one in light GREEN is the one that works great for turning the LED off and on, but does NOT dim or brighten it. I have tried this setup and it works. 2) The second setup in RED is one that works great for dimming and brightening of the LED - but does NOT turn off/on The trouble now is getting them to work in combination so I can have it dim and turn off/on. As I said, I have tried both of these setup and then tried to mix and match the setup to see if I could get both the bright/dim and the off/on to work at the SAME TIME, but to no avail. I have not used a resistor for either of these setup because when I connect the TWO batteries directly to the LED (the way I have been using it before the variable resistor), it has never been a problem and doesn't get hot or burn out. Can I just ask that you post replies to the bottom of any text that you are replying to, rather than the top, as you would when replying to a personal e-mail. It makes the thread a lot easier to follow, and whilst there are a few that vociferously defend newsgroup top-posting, the accepted convention is to bottom post, with top snipping if needed to aid clarity. Thanks. Arfa |
#48
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and the
one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it lying there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery "+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags should be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms connected between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED can draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out. http://davidd.250free.com/resistor2.gif Ok, I have two wire setups here. 1) The first one in light GREEN is the one that works great for turning the LED off and on, but does NOT dim or brighten it. I have tried this setup and it works. 2) The second setup in RED is one that works great for dimming and brightening of the LED - but does NOT turn off/on The trouble now is getting them to work in combination so I can have it dim and turn off/on. As I said, I have tried both of these setup and then tried to mix and match the setup to see if I could get both the bright/dim and the off/on to work at the SAME TIME, but to no avail. I have not used a resistor for either of these setup because when I connect the TWO batteries directly to the LED (the way I have been using it before the variable resistor), it has never been a problem and doesn't get hot or burn out. Can I just ask that you post replies to the bottom of any text that you are replying to, rather than the top, as you would when replying to a personal e-mail. It makes the thread a lot easier to follow, and whilst there are a few that vociferously defend newsgroup top-posting, the accepted convention is to bottom post, with top snipping if needed to aid clarity. Thanks. Arfa |
#49
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and the
one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it lying there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery "+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags should be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms connected between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED can draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out. http://davidd.250free.com/resistor2.gif Ok, I have two wire setups here. 1) The first one in light GREEN is the one that works great for turning the LED off and on, but does NOT dim or brighten it. I have tried this setup and it works. 2) The second setup in RED is one that works great for dimming and brightening of the LED - but does NOT turn off/on The trouble now is getting them to work in combination so I can have it dim and turn off/on. As I said, I have tried both of these setup and then tried to mix and match the setup to see if I could get both the bright/dim and the off/on to work at the SAME TIME, but to no avail. I have not used a resistor for either of these setup because when I connect the TWO batteries directly to the LED (the way I have been using it before the variable resistor), it has never been a problem and doesn't get hot or burn out. Can I just ask that you post replies to the bottom of any text that you are replying to, rather than the top, as you would when replying to a personal e-mail. It makes the thread a lot easier to follow, and whilst there are a few that vociferously defend newsgroup top-posting, the accepted convention is to bottom post, with top snipping if needed to aid clarity. Thanks. Arfa |
#50
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and the
one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it lying there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery "+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags should be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms connected between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED can draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out. http://davidd.250free.com/resistor2.gif Ok, I have two wire setups here. 1) The first one in light GREEN is the one that works great for turning the LED off and on, but does NOT dim or brighten it. I have tried this setup and it works. 2) The second setup in RED is one that works great for dimming and brightening of the LED - but does NOT turn off/on The trouble now is getting them to work in combination so I can have it dim and turn off/on. As I said, I have tried both of these setup and then tried to mix and match the setup to see if I could get both the bright/dim and the off/on to work at the SAME TIME, but to no avail. I have not used a resistor for either of these setup because when I connect the TWO batteries directly to the LED (the way I have been using it before the variable resistor), it has never been a problem and doesn't get hot or burn out. Can I just ask that you post replies to the bottom of any text that you are replying to, rather than the top, as you would when replying to a personal e-mail. It makes the thread a lot easier to follow, and whilst there are a few that vociferously defend newsgroup top-posting, the accepted convention is to bottom post, with top snipping if needed to aid clarity. Thanks. Arfa |
#51
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Victory" wrote in message ... OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and the one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it lying there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery "+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags should be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms connected between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED can draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out. http://davidd.250free.com/resistor2.gif Ok, I have two wire setups here. 1) The first one in light GREEN is the one that works great for turning the LED off and on, but does NOT dim or brighten it. I have tried this setup and it works. 2) The second setup in RED is one that works great for dimming and brightening of the LED - but does NOT turn off/on The trouble now is getting them to work in combination so I can have it dim and turn off/on. As I said, I have tried both of these setup and then tried to mix and match the setup to see if I could get both the bright/dim and the off/on to work at the SAME TIME, but to no avail. I have not used a resistor for either of these setup because when I connect the TWO batteries directly to the LED (the way I have been using it before the variable resistor), it has never been a problem and doesn't get hot or burn out. Ah! OK. Now I can see what the two additional terminals on the pot are. They are a switch, which presumably goes "click" when you go fully anticlockwise, yes ? Assuming yes, then the correct hookup will be right hand side yellow to mid body righthand tag, as shown. New wire from left hand mid body tag to righthand tag of the block of three tags, ie the tag where you are currently showing a red wire on the right. Lefthand red wire where it is currently shown ie to the centre and left tags that are joined together. Lefthand yellow wire now irrelevant. Bottom red or yellow wire as currently indicated. Now, when the pot is clicked fully anticlockwise, the feed from the battery to the righthand pot tag, will be broken by the switch, so no current will flow through the LED, and it will extinguish. Once the switch has clicked back on, as you rotate clockwise, you will be returned to the 'red' circuit that worked ok to dim the LED. Do you follow that OK ? As far as not having any additional series resistor, if that's the way it was done in the original unit that you canibalised it from, then that's fine. I would however suggest that you do not use any other battery type than the originals, as it probably gets away with current limiting by the internal resistance of this type of cell. Whilst the LED may have its own internal current limiting, from the photo, it looks like a pretty bog-standard type, which if you do allow it to draw too much current, will destroy itself. Incidentally, your post appeared multiple times on my news server, separated by a couple of minutes each, so I'm not too sure what happened there. Arfa |
#52
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
I did notice the replication of the posts. I deleted them, but I
don't know why google repeated them so. To make it easier on me to understand, I have updated the image with numbers, so now it is a matter of matching numbers (I hope). I think this is always the difficulties with tech support on the phone or online because it is really hard to visualize with words sometimes. http://davidd.250free.com/resistor3.gif I tried to read through what you had written and got a little confused, so this might make it easier. OK. Assuming that the wire to the left of your battery pack is "-" and the one to the right is "+", then it connects pretty much as you have it lying there. The short leg of the LED goes straight to battery "-". The battery "+" wire goes to the right-hand tag of the three that are together on the pot, as we are looking at it on the picture. The centre and left tags should be joined together. You then need a fixed resistor of say 22 ohms connected between the joined-together pot tags, and the long lead on the LED. This resistor is important, as it will limit the maximum current that the LED can draw with the pot turned right up. Without it, the LED will burn out. Ah! OK. Now I can see what the two additional terminals on the pot are. They are a switch, which presumably goes "click" when you go fully anticlockwise, yes ? Yes, it clicks off/on Assuming yes, then the correct hookup will be right hand side yellow to mid body righthand tag, as shown. New wire from left hand mid body tag to righthand tag of the block of three tags, ie the tag where you are currently showing a red wire on the right. Lefthand red wire where it is currently shown ie to the centre and left tags that are joined together. Lefthand yellow wire now irrelevant. Bottom red or yellow wire as currently indicated. Now, when the pot is clicked fully anticlockwise, the feed from the battery to the righthand pot tag, will be broken by the switch, so no current will flow through the LED, and it will extinguish. Once the switch has clicked back on, as you rotate clockwise, you will be returned to the 'red' circuit that worked ok to dim the LED. Do you follow that OK ? As far as not having any additional series resistor, if that's the way it was done in the original unit that you canibalised it from, then that's fine. I would however suggest that you do not use any other battery type than the originals, as it probably gets away with current limiting by the internal resistance of this type of cell. Whilst the LED may have its own internal current limiting, from the photo, it looks like a pretty bog-standard type, which if you do allow it to draw too much current, will destroy itself. Incidentally, your post appeared multiple times on my news server, separated by a couple of minutes each, so I'm not too sure what happened there. Arfa |
#53
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Victory" wrote in message ... I did notice the replication of the posts. I deleted them, but I don't know why google repeated them so. To make it easier on me to understand, I have updated the image with numbers, so now it is a matter of matching numbers (I hope). I think this is always the difficulties with tech support on the phone or online because it is really hard to visualize with words sometimes. Hmm. I thought that I pretty much covered all the bases with unambiguous wording ... http://davidd.250free.com/resistor3.gif I tried to read through what you had written and got a little confused, so this might make it easier. Right then. 9 to 8. New wire 4 to 7. 5/6 to 3. 1 to 2. Hows about that then ? Follow OK ? Arfa |
#54
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Arfa Daily" wrote in message ... "Victory" wrote in message ... I did notice the replication of the posts. I deleted them, but I don't know why google repeated them so. To make it easier on me to understand, I have updated the image with numbers, so now it is a matter of matching numbers (I hope). I think this is always the difficulties with tech support on the phone or online because it is really hard to visualize with words sometimes. Hmm. I thought that I pretty much covered all the bases with unambiguous wording ... http://davidd.250free.com/resistor3.gif I tried to read through what you had written and got a little confused, so this might make it easier. Right then. 9 to 8. New wire 4 to 7. 5/6 to 3. 1 to 2. Hows about that then ? Follow OK ? Arfa Seems like he really needs to get a book, or read up on basic electronics online. It would be beneficial to have the slightest clue how each of the components works. It's a very simple circuit, anyone with any interest in electronics should soak up enough to be able to make it work on their own. Little is learned through such extensive handholding. |
#55
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
No you were perfect in your other explanation - I just didn't want to
get it wrong since I have tried a dozen combination and couldn't get it right. This way is great and I understand it completely. As you can tell, I don't have a electronic background of any sort (obvious), but I have experiments myself. I got a regular 3-prong pot to work, it is just these extra prongs that were throwing me. I would love to take a course in this stuff, but unfortunately, it is not offered in my area (yes, I have checked). I will let you know how it turns out once it is all connected. Hmm. I thought that I pretty much covered all the bases with unambiguous wording ... Right then. 9 to 8. New wire 4 to 7. 5/6 to 3. 1 to 2. Hows about that then ? Follow OK ? Arfa |
#56
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
Sweet success! Thank you so much. It goes pretty much through the
entire cycle of bright to dim as it turns. I was going to put an ON/OFF switch with another 3-prong POT when I couldn't get this 5 prong POT going, but this is great. Now, since you have been so completely helpful, I am going ask one more favor - I want to find a source for a 5-prong pots like this online - but I want to make sure it is smaller and lighter than what I have, (which is about 1 inch high) - any suggestions? On Jan 30, 11:44 pm, Victory wrote: No you were perfect in your other explanation - I just didn't want to get it wrong since I have tried a dozen combination and couldn't get it right. This way is great and I understand it completely. As you can tell, I don't have a electronic background of any sort (obvious), but I have experiments myself. I got a regular 3-prong pot to work, it is just these extra prongs that were throwing me. I would love to take a course in this stuff, but unfortunately, it is not offered in my area (yes, I have checked). I will let you know how it turns out once it is all connected. Hmm. I thought that I pretty much covered all the bases with unambiguous wording ... Right then. 9 to 8. New wire 4 to 7. 5/6 to 3. 1 to 2. Hows about that then ? Follow OK ? Arfa |
#57
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
In article VJ9oj.17703$8i.17306@trndny09,
"James Sweet" wrote: Seems like he really needs to get a book, or read up on basic electronics online. It would be beneficial to have the slightest clue how each of the components works. It's a very simple circuit, anyone with any interest in electronics should soak up enough to be able to make it work on their own. Little is learned through such extensive handholding. No ****. I was the first respondent to this guy, and the only thing I told him was to get a book. It was clear from the outset that he hadn't a speck of basic knowledge and no interest in obtaining any. Arfa's patience is exemplary but sometimes misguided, I think. OK, so the circuit works now, but the OP isn't one step closer to understanding anything about how or why it works. Give a man a fish... |
#58
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Victory" wrote in message ... Sweet success! Thank you so much. It goes pretty much through the entire cycle of bright to dim as it turns. I was going to put an ON/OFF switch with another 3-prong POT when I couldn't get this 5 prong POT going, but this is great. Now, since you have been so completely helpful, I am going ask one more favor - I want to find a source for a 5-prong pots like this online - but I want to make sure it is smaller and lighter than what I have, (which is about 1 inch high) - any suggestions? Dunno. Wherabouts in the world are you ? If in the UK, Maplins do quite a range. Probably Farnell and RS as well. You can now order from them without being 'trade'. If in the US, Digikey or Mouser, perhaps ? I would suggest that Google is your friend here ... Look for "pot with switch" and you probably are looking for ones with a linear rather than logarithmic taper. (Google that for a better understanding). Wiki have some very good sections on basic electronics. Try typing into their search box for articles that you might understand ok. The 'prongs' are called tags, or pins if it's a printed circuit mounting component. Be careful with going any 'lighter' duty on the component, as its (relatively) delicate guts may not be able to stand the current that the LED draws at high brightness. These days, pots tend to all be of the 'Japanese' variety that you show in your pictures, so you will probably struggle a bit to get a smaller one with a switch, in any case. Anyway, glad you got it going in the end, and hope you learnt something along the way (even if it is just about top and bottom posting conventions ... d;~} ) Arfa |
#59
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Smitty Two" wrote in message news In article VJ9oj.17703$8i.17306@trndny09, "James Sweet" wrote: Seems like he really needs to get a book, or read up on basic electronics online. It would be beneficial to have the slightest clue how each of the components works. It's a very simple circuit, anyone with any interest in electronics should soak up enough to be able to make it work on their own. Little is learned through such extensive handholding. No ****. I was the first respondent to this guy, and the only thing I told him was to get a book. It was clear from the outset that he hadn't a speck of basic knowledge and no interest in obtaining any. Arfa's patience is exemplary but sometimes misguided, I think. OK, so the circuit works now, but the OP isn't one step closer to understanding anything about how or why it works. Give a man a fish... Hi Smiddy, how goes it ? Well, gotta do ya bit, you know ? I guess we were all electronically 'dumb' at one time. Hopefully, by giving the guy this one fish supper, I'll have encouraged him to go out and buy a rod ... I would like to think that he understands at least a bit about it now, and at least he seems appreciative of the help he's received, unlike some on here. Like the one that I took the trouble to send schematics to a couple of weeks or so ago, who hasn't even had the courtesy to acknowledge the effort, let alone offer any thanks ... Misguided ? Yeah, I've been that all my life. That's why I've got me a GPS now ... :-) Arfa |
#60
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
In article ,
"Arfa Daily" wrote: I would like to think that he understands at least a bit about it now Well, Victory, would you like to substantiate this by answering a couple of questions about what's going on with your new circuit? 1 What does the pot do? In other words, how does it change the brightness of the LED? 2 What purpose do the two most widely spaced terminals on the pot serve? |
#61
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
Sure, I will bite, if only for Arfa sake because he doesn't seem
grumpy. 1) The pot varies the resistance of current going to the LED. So, as you turn it, the current gets stronger or weaker (brighter or dimmer), until it is turned off. 2) The widely spaced terminals are for the OFF/ON switch of the pot. I tested those separate and they turned the LED off and on as far as I could see. When the current is interrupted by the switch being in the OFF position (ie; the circuit not completed), the LED receives no power from the battery. When the switch is turned on, the circuit is complete and therefore the LED receives power from the battery. How does that sound? On Jan 31, 10:00 am, Smitty Two wrote: In article , "Arfa Daily" wrote: I would like to think that he understands at least a bit about it now Well, Victory, would you like to substantiate this by answering a couple of questions about what's going on with your new circuit? 1 What does the pot do? In other words, how does it change the brightness of the LED? 2 What purpose do the two most widely spaced terminals on the pot serve? |
#62
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
In article
, Victory wrote: Sure, I will bite, if only for Arfa sake because he doesn't seem grumpy. 1) The pot varies the resistance of current going to the LED. So, as you turn it, the current gets stronger or weaker (brighter or dimmer), until it is turned off. 2) The widely spaced terminals are for the OFF/ON switch of the pot. I tested those separate and they turned the LED off and on as far as I could see. When the current is interrupted by the switch being in the OFF position (ie; the circuit not completed), the LED receives no power from the battery. When the switch is turned on, the circuit is complete and therefore the LED receives power from the battery. How does that sound? Surprisingly credible. You've gained more than I suspected. |
#63
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
How does that sound? Surprisingly credible. You've gained more than I suspected. Arfa and others are good teachers. |
#64
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Victory" wrote in message
... How does that sound? Surprisingly credible. You've gained more than I suspected. Arfa and others are good teachers. And Victory ought to be immensely grateful that so many busy people spent so much time helping him with Electricity 101. If he's genuinely grateful, he'll pick up a few books and teach himself some more. |
#65
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Victory" wrote in message ... Sure, I will bite, if only for Arfa sake because he doesn't seem grumpy. 1) The pot varies the resistance of current going to the LED. So, as you turn it, the current gets stronger or weaker (brighter or dimmer), until it is turned off. 2) The widely spaced terminals are for the OFF/ON switch of the pot. I tested those separate and they turned the LED off and on as far as I could see. When the current is interrupted by the switch being in the OFF position (ie; the circuit not completed), the LED receives no power from the battery. When the switch is turned on, the circuit is complete and therefore the LED receives power from the battery. How does that sound? Well done ! See Smitty, I knew it was worthwhile giving it a go ... ! You could say, a 'bit of a Victory' Ha! Victory ! Geddit ? Arfa Arfa |
#66
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
Well done ! See Smitty, I knew it was worthwhile giving it a go ... ! You could say, a 'bit of a Victory' Ha! Victory ! Geddit ? Arfa Thanks Arfa, Just trying to find a really small Button battery (cr2032) holder. It is all going really smoothly thanks to the helpful members of the group. |
#67
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
|
|||
|
|||
is there a way to increase the light of an LED with a dial?
"Victory" wrote in message ... Well done ! See Smitty, I knew it was worthwhile giving it a go ... ! You could say, a 'bit of a Victory' Ha! Victory ! Geddit ? Arfa Thanks Arfa, Just trying to find a really small Button battery (cr2032) holder. It is all going really smoothly thanks to the helpful members of the group. Just as a matter of interest, what is this project for ? Don't have to say if you don't want to. Just nice to know where some of these left-field balls come from ... Arfa |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
How to Increase Your Wi-Fi Signal | Electronics Repair | |||
Increase inlet on DC? | Woodworking | |||
Gas usage increase? ? ? | Home Repair | |||
Removing dial bezel on silver Trav A Dial? | Metalworking | |||
Replaement dial cover for B & S 6" Dial Daliper | Metalworking |