Some great responses and I appreciate them muchly.

1. Being specific. Sometimes I/we forget how people will hear us and make
assumptions. I was sloppy in my question and embarassed at having to add
other posts.
Specifically this problem arose with two conditions - partially spalted
crotch wood (hard then soft spots) and particularly the inside of an
undercut rim, soup mug kinda shaped bowl where a gouge stays on its tip
instead of its wings and the undercut precludes the gouge for some of the
area.

Even on the outside I was unable to handle that bouncy surface with a gouge
shear cut on the wings. You had to stay away from the bevel and just kiss
the surface with the wings as a scraper or use a flat scraper and just
barely touch any protrusions. And as has been noted the outside can be
handled but the inside requires something special.

2. The shear cut I was referring to is the sort Robo and Steve Russell
referred to. That final, evening out, wispy cut. Steve's using a bullnosed
scraper angled about 45* which means the left edge is not under the actually
cutting point and must be rounded or is likely to catch on the rest as
you're using it. Further, I wanted to continue that action up the side and
under that rim.

What looked like the ideal tool was the Sorby 8803H 28" overall (17" handle)
with removable and adjustable bits, particularly the large oval/straight bit
that resembles a "comma". My thought was that the rounded shaft with a
minimal flat would be very flexible and supportive. The articulating head
with the straight portion of the bit could reach under some hollow forms or
this bowls undercut.

So I bothered you folks to see if what looked "ideal" was reality or what
other techniques applied to this particular situation.
Thanks
TomNie