"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Jan 2008 11:42:50 GMT, "George" wrote:


Well, as I said, they take less time here, because they're not
twice-turned.
I keep my knuckles behind the rest, so I really can't charge a premium
there either.

Ah.. I don't twice-turn any more, so that doesn't factor in...
Sort of unlikely that I'll find any green wood in Baja.. lol

The use of my (sorry, it's what it's called) "Mac Mop" for sanding has
really been an asset. I'm even thinking of getting a coarser one this
year
to see how it does. Expensive, but they appear to be here for the long
term, and that'll allow me to split the cost over many bowls. You might
want to consider that flex shaft for sanding followed by the mop. One
hand
for the wood and one hand on the handpiece makes hand sanding a thing of
the
past.

I've been looking at mops and "stars" but still can't see how you'd power
sand a
wing bowl.. All I do is tear sand paper or knock off bark..

BTW: by hand sanding, I meant holding the paper in a padded holder while
the
lathe spins, though I do some hand or power sanding once in a while after
they're turned..


I use the flex shaft and disks for the 120 on (wet) and 220 off the lathe
when dry. Then I take the bowl to the mop on my JET buffer/sander to do the
job. The smaller "stars" are great at goblets and boxes, of course. Use
them on the flex shaft after flex edge or Kirjes sander. If you carve your
turnings, the stars can brighten that up nicely, too.

Back to the flatwork.