On 2008-01-04, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
[ ... ]
By the way, is there anything one can smear on the tapers to make
subsequent disassembly easier? Moly grease?
You don't *want* grease on them. The male nose taper for the
L-00 is a self-releasing taper, and the threaded ring will apply
[ ... ]
Also -- any grease in there will be likely to hold some swarf
which will then dent either the collet adaptor or the inside taper of
the spindle -- or both -- introducing some more runout.
I'm assuming that one will always wipe the mating surfaces clean before
attempting assembly, as getting swarf into things is *always* a
possibility, even in the absence of an intentional layer of grease.
Once clamped together, subsequent swarf is mechanically excluded.
The clamping pressure in the taper is more than enough to displace a
layer of thing grease. Or anhydrous lanolin.
O.K. For that -- go with Vactra No. 2 Waylube. It is thick
enough to say in place, but easy enough to clean off -- especially with
a spritz of WD-40 -- one of the few things which it *is* good for. :-)
[ ... ]
The nice lady at Clausing suggested that I call Royal for information on
the closer, and gave me their 800 number.
O.K. That may get you the information you need. (But really, I
think that you *have* all that you need for removing the collet adaptor.
I did not find a model number on the closer, so I hope that the fact
that it is fitted to a 5914 suffices.
I think that they will differ only in overall length. There is
no visible model number on mine, either. I'm presuming that you have a
lever style closer.
I talked to Royal Products yesterday. They had no problem identifying
the specific lever closer used; all that differs is the length of the
drawtube. They prefer to pull the drawtube assembly and use a
broomstick of brass rod to tap the collet holder out of the taper from
behind.
Hmm ... while I did that the one time I forgot to put the nose
protector on -- there is not much access to the back rim given the taper
it is in. I think that turning the end into a long-stemmed mushroom
would help a bit.
While the engineer allowed that many people use the nosepiece
to pop the collet holder out, pushing a hardened steel holder out with
an aluminum nosepiece wears the expensive nosepiece out fairly quickly,
and is not recommended.
When I asked what the nosepiece was for, he laughed and said it was
largely to keep the now jobless clamping ring from jingling as the
machine runs, and also keeps swarf out.
Well ... I can certainly agree with keeping the ring from
jingling, there are also protection nosepieces on the 2-1/4x8 original
spindle, and those have socket holes for a pin spanner to use to pop out
the collet adaptor.
And I've not yet noticed any wear on the protective nosepiece
from using it as I have described -- though the 2-1/4x8 one was steel
(and I turned up a replacement, because the original's holes were pretty
badly worn -- just as are the ones on the L-00 clamping ring on my
current one. That is scheduled for replacement next time I have the
spindle out.
One thing which you may need to know if there is a collet in the
closer right now. Somewhere around the large diameter hub of the closer
at the far end of the headstock there is a piece of steel perhaps 1/8:
thick visible edge on, with a relieved area near one end. Press down on
that to disengage the other end from a set of notches in a flange on the
end of the spindle, and this will allow you to loosen (or tighten) the
drawbar on the collet. Rotate the top away from you to unscrew the
collet, and use the lever to kick the collet out far enough for you to
grip and remove it. Once this is done, you can use the spanner wrench
to loosen the ring and pop the collet adaptor out of the spindle.
Yes, I found all this, by fiddling.
I also have pdfs of the drawings, free from Royal.
Great! I would ask for e-mailing copies, but they would never
make it past the size limits on my spam/virus filtering. Any e-mail
over a total size of 30K is rejected before I even find out who it is. :-)
[ ... ]
Given the weight of the largest chuck -- probably a 4-jaw -- and
the torque needed to accelerate that (even without a load) -- you want
to set the acceleration time down far enough so it won't trip the
over-current under those conditions -- and then a bit more to allow for
the weight of a workpiece in the chuck. (Note that a 4-jaw at full
speed can be a scary object anyway -- and always have the jaws firmly
clamped on something so they don't back out and get launched across the
shop -- or into you.
OK. Normal default startup ramp is 10 seconds, if I recall. On the
mill, I shortened that to 3 seconds, and this has not caused breaker
tripping. This is with a 1 HP motor.
O.K. Ten seconds should be plenty. You can consider turning it
to shorter times when doing tapping with stock in a collet and using a
releasing tapping head in a turret. That is where you want to be able
to reverse the spindle fairly quickly (certainly a lot more quickly than
if you are stuck with a single-phase cap start motor, where you have to
wait for it to slow almost all the way down before switching it into
reverse so you can back out the tap. The tapping head releases, so you
don't have to stop too quickly -- but you lose time per part reversing
to back the tap out.
If I get serious about rapid stops, I can always add a braking resistor.
Indeed. Note that with the extra radius and mass of a big
chuck, you will need more braking time -- or a serious braking
resistor -- to handle reversing -- or even just starting at a high speed
setting.
Yes. I'll see how it goes. I can always add a braking resistor, but I
will be sure to leave space for such.
O.K
Good Luck,
DoN.
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