In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2008-01-03, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2008-01-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... ]

If you have the collet adaptor in the spindle, and the locking
ring around the spindle is not rattling loose, then it must be drawn
up
on a nose protector. To eject the adaptor:

1) Remove any collet from the adaptor.

2) Start turning the ring to unscrew it from the protector. It
will start a bit tight (especially with your spooge), then get
loose, then as it move far enough to touch the flange of the
adaptor, will get tight again until you move it far enough so
the collet adaptor pops loose. (Keep a hand ready to catch it,
it may jump quite a ways, given how long it probably has been in
place.)

I'll try this.

It should work -- and then give you a chance to clean the
threads of both the ring and the nose protector.

By the way, is there anything one can smear on the tapers to make
subsequent disassembly easier? Moly grease?

You don't *want* grease on them. The male nose taper for the
L-00 is a self-releasing taper, and the threaded ring will apply
whatever force (if any) is needed to pop a chuck loose. And any grease
on the collet adaptor taper increases the chance that it will introduce
eccentricity -- runout. However, a bit of grease (perhaps Lithium
grease like Lubriplate) in the threads of the ring and the chuck or nose
protector may be helpful. But I think that once you get the ring and
nose protector off for the first time, and then clean up the spooge, you
should not feel the need for any on the chuck taper. And you *really*
want the collet taper to grip firmly, not to slip out easily. Remember
-- all tension is removed from it whenever you loosen the collet's grip
on the workpiece.

Also -- any grease in there will be likely to hold some swarf
which will then dent either the collet adaptor or the inside taper of
the spindle -- or both -- introducing some more runout.

I'm assuming that one will always wipe the mating surfaces clean before
attempting assembly, as getting swarf into things is *always* a
possibility, even in the absence of an intentional layer of grease.
Once clamped together, subsequent swarf is mechanically excluded.

The clamping pressure in the taper is more than enough to displace a
layer of thing grease. Or anhydrous lanolin.


I always store the collet adaptor in the protector so I will
remember to put it on before installing the collet adaptor. :-)

I started doing this, but chickened out. I'll wait till I have read the
manual.

I doubt that the manual will say anything about it. If you got
a manual for the collet closer as well -- *that* might have more
information. There was no mention in my manual of the collet closer
(with the 2-1/4x8 spindle nose -- even though it was fitted from the
factory.

The nice lady at Clausing suggested that I call Royal for information on
the closer, and gave me their 800 number.

O.K. That may get you the information you need. (But really, I
think that you *have* all that you need for removing the collet adaptor.

I did not find a model number on the closer, so I hope that the fact
that it is fitted to a 5914 suffices.

I think that they will differ only in overall length. There is
no visible model number on mine, either. I'm presuming that you have a
lever style closer.

I talked to Royal Products yesterday. They had no problem identifying
the specific lever closer used; all that differs is the length of the
drawtube. They prefer to pull the drawtube assembly and use a
broomstick of brass rod to tap the collet holder out of the taper from
behind. While the engineer allowed that many people use the nosepiece
to pop the collet holder out, pushing a hardened steel holder out with
an aluminum nosepiece wears the expensive nosepiece out fairly quickly,
and is not recommended.

When I asked what the nosepiece was for, he laughed and said it was
largely to keep the now jobless clamping ring from jingling as the
machine runs, and also keeps swarf out.


One thing which you may need to know if there is a collet in the
closer right now. Somewhere around the large diameter hub of the closer
at the far end of the headstock there is a piece of steel perhaps 1/8:
thick visible edge on, with a relieved area near one end. Press down on
that to disengage the other end from a set of notches in a flange on the
end of the spindle, and this will allow you to loosen (or tighten) the
drawbar on the collet. Rotate the top away from you to unscrew the
collet, and use the lever to kick the collet out far enough for you to
grip and remove it. Once this is done, you can use the spanner wrench
to loosen the ring and pop the collet adaptor out of the spindle.

Yes, I found all this, by fiddling.

I also have pdfs of the drawings, free from Royal.


Agreed. And you can make a housing for the pot to mount just
below the switch, perhaps?

That was one thought. Or inside something, if there is space.

*No*! Almost anywhere inside the lathe is likely to have swarf
floating past -- and if it shorts across two of the terminals of the
pot, either your speed will go to zero, or to full -- and the pot may
get burned out as well. Mill up a housing for it and be sure to protect
the wire entry holes from chip entry -- grommets, or perhaps fill around
the wire entry with RTV.

I didn't fully explain, but the pot will be in a standard diecast box,
with the shielded wire held in a full-closure cable clamp (to protect
the wires mechanically. This setup is dust-proof, so swarf will not
enter.

Good enough.

I *think* that the supply terminals from the VFD are protected
against shorting -- but that may vary with brand.

The VFD will be up on the wall a few feet away, on a metal plate 5.5'
from the floor, and has a closed front.

But the terminals are remoted away from that to your switch and
pot -- and it was the power feed to the pot (CCW and CW ends) which I
was worried about.

[ ... ]

Given the weight of the largest chuck -- probably a 4-jaw -- and
the torque needed to accelerate that (even without a load) -- you want
to set the acceleration time down far enough so it won't trip the
over-current under those conditions -- and then a bit more to allow for
the weight of a workpiece in the chuck. (Note that a 4-jaw at full
speed can be a scary object anyway -- and always have the jaws firmly
clamped on something so they don't back out and get launched across the
shop -- or into you.

OK. Normal default startup ramp is 10 seconds, if I recall. On the
mill, I shortened that to 3 seconds, and this has not caused breaker
tripping. This is with a 1 HP motor.

O.K. Ten seconds should be plenty. You can consider turning it
to shorter times when doing tapping with stock in a collet and using a
releasing tapping head in a turret. That is where you want to be able
to reverse the spindle fairly quickly (certainly a lot more quickly than
if you are stuck with a single-phase cap start motor, where you have to
wait for it to slow almost all the way down before switching it into
reverse so you can back out the tap. The tapping head releases, so you
don't have to stop too quickly -- but you lose time per part reversing
to back the tap out.

If I get serious about rapid stops, I can always add a braking resistor.

Indeed. Note that with the extra radius and mass of a big
chuck, you will need more braking time -- or a serious braking
resistor -- to handle reversing -- or even just starting at a high speed
setting.

Yes. I'll see how it goes. I can always add a braking resistor, but I
will be sure to leave space for such.


And note that you are not supposed to change the vari-speed
pulley settings unless the motor and spindle are rotating.

Yes. Also says so on the Vari-Speed control on the lathe.


Joe Gwinn