In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2008-01-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... ]

If you have the collet adaptor in the spindle, and the locking
ring around the spindle is not rattling loose, then it must be drawn up
on a nose protector. To eject the adaptor:

1) Remove any collet from the adaptor.

2) Start turning the ring to unscrew it from the protector. It
will start a bit tight (especially with your spooge), then get
loose, then as it move far enough to touch the flange of the
adaptor, will get tight again until you move it far enough so
the collet adaptor pops loose. (Keep a hand ready to catch it,
it may jump quite a ways, given how long it probably has been in
place.)

I'll try this.

It should work -- and then give you a chance to clean the
threads of both the ring and the nose protector.

By the way, is there anything one can smear on the tapers to make
subsequent disassembly easier? Moly grease?


I always store the collet adaptor in the protector so I will
remember to put it on before installing the collet adaptor. :-)

I started doing this, but chickened out. I'll wait till I have read the
manual.

I doubt that the manual will say anything about it. If you got
a manual for the collet closer as well -- *that* might have more
information. There was no mention in my manual of the collet closer
(with the 2-1/4x8 spindle nose -- even though it was fitted from the
factory.

The nice lady at Clausing suggested that I call Royal for information on
the closer, and gave me their 800 number.

I did not find a model number on the closer, so I hope that the fact
that it is fitted to a 5914 suffices.


Agreed. And you can make a housing for the pot to mount just
below the switch, perhaps?

That was one thought. Or inside something, if there is space.

*No*! Almost anywhere inside the lathe is likely to have swarf
floating past -- and if it shorts across two of the terminals of the
pot, either your speed will go to zero, or to full -- and the pot may
get burned out as well. Mill up a housing for it and be sure to protect
the wire entry holes from chip entry -- grommets, or perhaps fill around
the wire entry with RTV.

I didn't fully explain, but the pot will be in a standard diecast box,
with the shielded wire held in a full-closure cable clamp (to protect
the wires mechanically. This setup is dust-proof, so swarf will not
enter.


I *think* that the supply terminals from the VFD are protected
against shorting -- but that may vary with brand.

The VFD will be up on the wall a few feet away, on a metal plate 5.5'
from the floor, and has a closed front.


Yes. My only worry is if abrupt reversal of direction through off will
cause a problem. I think it's OK to do this, because it's only a
command the the VFD, which can implement the command gracefully, without
sparks. But I'll be reading the VFD manual.

Remember -- the VFD has a programmable acceleration and
deceleration. Those values are used when the switch goes from forward
to reverse as well. (Which can make such switching a bit safer with a
threaded nose, as you are less likely to unscrew the chuck. :-) But
with your L-00 nose, there is no problem anyway.

I've read the manual for the old VFD, and it makes no warnings about
abrupt reversal of direction using the direction controls. I'll try
this on the mill, which uses this old VFD. I've done abrupt reversal by
mistake a few times already, and there was no drama. Given the
liklihood of such reversals in practice, I don't see how it could be any
other way.

Given the weight of the largest chuck -- probably a 4-jaw -- and
the torque needed to accelerate that (even without a load) -- you want
to set the acceleration time down far enough so it won't trip the
over-current under those conditions -- and then a bit more to allow for
the weight of a workpiece in the chuck. (Note that a 4-jaw at full
speed can be a scary object anyway -- and always have the jaws firmly
clamped on something so they don't back out and get launched across the
shop -- or into you.

OK. Normal default startup ramp is 10 seconds, if I recall. On the
mill, I shortened that to 3 seconds, and this has not caused breaker
tripping. This is with a 1 HP motor.

If I get serious about rapid stops, I can always add a braking resistor.

Joe Gwinn