On 2008-01-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... ]

That is correct. It comes as a blank with a new toolpost (at
least so with the new Phase-II toolpost, which is the only post which I
have had new.)

OK.

[ ... ]

Hmm ... the Phase-II has a metric thread which is quite similar
to your 5/8-18 -- probably a 16mm thread. And the plate comes
pre-tapped in the center of the plate -- but you do have to mill down
the plate to make it into a 'T'.

OK. If one buys a new Aloris, they will make the plate for you,
partially ofsetting the cost differential. With used, one will make
one's own plate.

O.K. I did not know that for sure. (And see later -- this does
not seem to be really the case.) They would either have to have
measurements from you for *your* T-slot (as they vary a lot), or know
the model of the lathe and know for sure that it is the original
compound. It *may* be pre-cut for the largest likely T-slot, and have to
be cut down some more for other sizes.

[ ... ]

Having cleaned and inspected the Dickson toolpost and holders that came
with the lathe, I'm losing interest. They are quite heavily used and in
some cases abused. Some of the setscrews are bulging and cracking near
the tips, and will need to be replaced with dog-point hex socket cap
screws. I had to drill the stub of one busted setscrew out.

As for the height -- that is handled by the nuts on the screws
on the tool holders -- so each is set to the proper height for its own
tool. I somehow doubt that you would need to block up the ToolMex or
Dickson on the Clausing compound.

None of these height adjustment pancake nuts came with the set, and the
posts onto which they thread are mostly in bad shape. The mangled
threaded posts can be replaced, but it will be an effort to get the old
ones out. They are very hard, and appear to be upsidedown hex-socket
setscrews.

I'll bet that they are set in with Locktite. If so -- heat the
holder while gently twisting the mangled screws with small vise-grips.
You don't need to (and shouldn't) apply much torque -- just a little.
When it gets hot enough, the wrench will turn easily, so you know when
to stop heating. Then just replace them with allthread or long
setscrews as appropriate.

You ideally should have at least one height-adjusting nut to
copy. But if you don't, here are the things to bear in mind.

1) The flange goes between two flanges on the top of the cam
one continuous, and one (the upper) interrupted to allow the
tool holder to be lifted clear. The thickness of the flange on
the nuts which you make need to be just a little thinner than
the spacing between the two flanges.

2) The diameter of the flange needs to be enough to reach from the
stud almost to the bottom of the groove between flanges on the
locking cam.

3) The height of the stud on the holder should be high enough to
allow the height-adjusting nut to be screwed on enough to hold
with base of the holder level with the base of the toolpost, and
short enough to allow the nut to be screwed on enough to lift the
holder on the V-rails so its top is level with the top of the
post. The Height adjusting nut needs to be long enough to allow
some threads from the stud at the lowest position of the tool
holder, and some threads from the lock screw at the highest
position of the tool holder.

And the ones which I have use Metric threaded setscrews and
height post screws. (But they are too small to fit our Clausings
anyway). Check to make sure whether you have metric or imperial threads
on yours.

[ ... ]

Yes. And I did get the 4-jaw chuck. What I didn't get is the slotted
faceplate. Drat!

Can also be done on the mill, using a piloted tap wrench. I may just
skip the holes for the 8mm locator pin until such time as a need
presents itself.

That seems reasonable. I do wish that mine for the
Compact-5/CNC had the pin -- because *there* it would make sense.

[ ... ]

I think I need an Aloris catalog, to know the options and their prices.

That will tell you the options -- but I don't think that you
will find prices. For that, I use my MSC catalog as the reference. (It
also has a pretty good listing for all of the options available.)

Yep. They do command a fine price, they do.

:-)

Which toolholders do you recommend I start with, by Aloris number, and
why. You mentioned a few, but without the numbers it's hard for me to
connect the dots.

O.K. MSC catalog time. Sigh -- I wonder which volume now that
they have split it in two. :-)

Hmm ... first off -- the notes accompanying a set of Aloris
toolpost and holders says:

"Tool post T-nut may require machining for your application"

so don't depend on Aloris doing it all for you. :-)

First - the ones which come in the sets:

1) Style 1 -- turning and facing. Get quite a few of these, since
you want to have one for each tool which you are likely to use
often, so they all can be set to the proper height -- or you
lose part of the quick-change feature.

2) Style 2 -- boring, turning and facing. The difference here is
that there is a V down the center of the bottom of the slot,
good for holding boring bars, but still usable for the other
tools as well.

3) Style 4 -- boring, heavy duty. This is what you use to hold
a 1" diameter boring bar which accepts HSS lathe bits. I've
used this both for boring and for internal Acme threading which
a home-ground HSS tool. But you are unlikely to need more than
one.

4) Style 7 -- Universal parting (cut-off). This, with a Mo-Max
cobalt steel T-profile parting tool is very nice to have.

5) Style 10 -- knurling, facing, and turning. Only if someone
*gives* it to you -- and only to use for facing not for
knurling. For knurling -- either a scissors style knurling tool
or the one which I will describe later.

Above -- replace the word "Style" with BXA-" to get the full
part number.

Now -- others which I find of interest.

6)* BXA-13 -- "new extension tool holder" -- good for threading
without hitting the tailstock live center. (I would like to
have a couple more of these, but I do have *one* -- bought new.

7) BXA-5 and BXA-53 -- Morse taper holders -- useful for drilling
with carriage power feed. In the BXA size, the 5 is MT-2, and
the 53 is MT-3 -- both useful -- though with only one, go for
the 53, and get an adaptor sleeve from MT-2 to MT-3.

8)* BXA-6 -- multiple tool holder. A grid of setscrews to hold
more than one tool at a time -- groove and bevel or part at the
same time for production work -- usually best with a turret
handling other tasks.

9) BXA-19 -- the fancy knurling tool which I mentioned above and
earlier. $286 in the MSC catalog at present -- perhaps more
when you call in, because prices keep going up.

10)* BXA-16N or BXA-16. The double-ended insert holder. The 'N' is
for negative rake tools -- which with the right chipbreaker
groove still cut as positive -- but which have six cutting
points instead of three for the triangular inserts.

The ones marked with a '*' after the ')' are the only ones which
I bought new -- because I needed them, and I could never find a
reasonable enough price in eBay auctions -- only perhaps $10.00 less
than new price.

There are other interesting ones -- but these are the ones I
have, either genuine Aloris bought new (the ones marked with '*', or
Phase-II or used Aloris for the others.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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