On 2008-01-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
[ ... ]
If you have the collet adaptor in the spindle, and the locking
ring around the spindle is not rattling loose, then it must be drawn up
on a nose protector. To eject the adaptor:
1) Remove any collet from the adaptor.
2) Start turning the ring to unscrew it from the protector. It
will start a bit tight (especially with your spooge), then get
loose, then as it move far enough to touch the flange of the
adaptor, will get tight again until you move it far enough so
the collet adaptor pops loose. (Keep a hand ready to catch it,
it may jump quite a ways, given how long it probably has been in
place.)
I'll try this.
It should work -- and then give you a chance to clean the
threads of both the ring and the nose protector.
I always store the collet adaptor in the protector so I will
remember to put it on before installing the collet adaptor. :-)
[ ... ]
Must be there somewhere, but no paddle lever.
Looking at the photo which someone posted, the paddle lever has
been replaced with a black knob on the front. It either rotates to
select the three positions, or it pulls out and pushes in with detents.
Look for numbers on the front as a clue as to whether it rotates or
pulls.
I have the black knob, with three positions marked A, B, and C.
Good. The chart lists the paddle lever positions as left,
center, and right. Less space on yours.
[ ... ]
It has a three-position switch: forward-off-reverse. I will bypass this
switch, as the VFD will not approve of live switching of motor wiring.
Keep the switch -- but wire it to the control pins of the VFD
instead of the motor windings. There are enough contacts in the switch
so you can easily find a SPDTCO (Single-Pole Double-Throw, Center-Off)
section to run to the VFD's control pins. It is likely to be combined
with a second switch throwing the other way for the other side of a
winding which is normally reversed by the switching. Just ignore this
other side. :-)
It will certainly have enough contacts.
I would mention that one must use shielded wire from VFD to this switch.
Likewise, to any speed-control pot.
Agreed. And you can make a housing for the pot to mount just
below the switch, perhaps?
Of course -- you will have to dig through the manual of your VFD
to find the parameter which needs to be set to get it to pay attention
to the control contacts instead of the front panel buttons.
Not a problem. Already figured out how to do this for the Mill, when I
built a control pendant.
Good enough.
The mechanical variable-speed control does not reverse; this is
accomplished by the above switch.
O.K. So you *want* to wire the switch to control the VFD. Any
other arrangement is more awkward and develops the wrong muscle memory
for using other lathes.
Yes. My only worry is if abrupt reversal of direction through off will
cause a problem. I think it's OK to do this, because it's only a
command the the VFD, which can implement the command gracefully, without
sparks. But I'll be reading the VFD manual.
Remember -- the VFD has a programmable acceleration and
deceleration. Those values are used when the switch goes from forward
to reverse as well. (Which can make such switching a bit safer with a
threaded nose, as you are less likely to unscrew the chuck. :-) But
with your L-00 nose, there is no problem anyway.
[ ... ]
I've figured out all the controls on the headstock. The key was the
metal chart telling what combination of controls gives what thread pitch.
Good.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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