In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-29, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2007-12-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:

[ ... ]

Of course -- some have milled notches instead of drilled holes,
and there you use a hook spanner instead.

Mine has shallow milled slots plus a blind round hole every 60 degrees,
and came with a big radial-pin spanner that fits perfectly.

The milled slots appear to be intended to provide a hand grip, being a
form of knurling.

I've seen some spanner wrenches with a curved tip to fit into a
radiused depth. slot

I've seen that too.


[ ... ]

Also -- be *sure* to put the nose protector on (and snug the
ring) before putting in the collet adaptor -- or you will have
difficulty getting the adaptor back out.

I don't know what a nose protector is, or if I have one. The lathe came
with collet nose and closer (made by Royal) installed, and I have not
yet taken them apart.

O.K. The nose is tapered, with a projecting key to engage a
matching key slot in the chuck mounting plates -- or built in.

When a collet adaptor is in place, there is nothing for the
pull-down ring to pull on unless there is a nose protector slid over the
nose (with the taper and keyway) and tightened by the ring.

The collet adaptor has a flange which extends out a bit beyond
the small-end diameter of the nose.

The collet adaptor gets *very* firmly wedged in the internal
taper of the spindle.

When you need to take it out -- you loosen the lock ring, which
then pushes the nose protector towards the tailstock, and pushes on the
flange of the collet adaptor -- popping it out. (Assuming that you
don't have a collet mounted at the time, of course. :-)

Hmm. I may have a protector, but didn't push hard enough to pop it
loose.


In my case -- the nose protector (ordered from Royal through
Scott Logan) was aluminum, and was included with the collet adaptor. I
already had the lever style collet drawbar. I'm not sure whether they
all were aluminum, or whether earlier ones were steel.

I did have to extend the drawbar by about an inch, because the
L-00 spindle was about that much longer than the 2-1/4x8 threaded one --
which had a different collet adaptor (to a different taper) and had a
ring which screwed on the 2-1/4x8 spindle nose. It used the same
approach to popping lose the adaptor -- and the ring itself was drilled
with holes for a pin spanner.

Given that this is a Royal lever closer, which was standard on the
Clausings, I'd guess that it came with everything needed, of the correct
length.


I have no idea what many of the knobs and handles on the lathe do, or
how to take it apart, and will order the manual from Clausing next week.

The manual will be a significant help. However, until it gets
there we'll see how much I can provide from my 5418 belt change lathe.

As it happens, I have a scanned 5418 manual. No idea how I got it or
where from.


1) On the carriage you will find:

a) A handwheel which turns a pinion which engages a rack
gear under the edge of the bed to move the carriage.

Yes.


b) A lever at the right-hand edge of the carriage which
pulls up to close the half-nuts. (Interlocked to the
feed lever, so you can't pull both up at the same time.)

Yes.


c) Possibly -- a threading dial attached to the right-hand
edge of the apron and with a gear on the end which
engages the leadscrew -- for telling you when to close
the half-nuts while threading.

It does have a threading dial.


d) A short lever which moves in a 'Z' shaped groove. Up
engages slow feed along the bed. Down engages slow
cross feed. It has to be slid along the center bar of
the 'Z' to switch from one to the other, so you are
unlikely to overshoot and go from longitudinal to
cross-feed or vice versa when you simply want to stop.
You should use this for feeds when cutting, and leave
the half-nuts only for use when threading.

This does not match, although something must perform a like function.


e) At the top of the apron is the cross-slide, with a
crank to move the cross slide (and it can be power fed).
Above the cross-slide is the compound with the T-slot
for mounting the tool holder.

Yes.


2) Below the bed under the headstock is the quick-change threading
gearbox. It has:

a) The usual lever where you pull out on a knurled
knob, swing it down, and slide it sideways to select a
particular set of gears.

Yes.


b) A paddle lever on top which has three positions, left,
center, and right -- with center pointing out at you.

This selects one of three factors-of-two reduction
ratios before the lever just mentioned.

Must be there somewhere, but no paddle lever.


c) Sticking out through a hole in the left-hand cover of
the headstock is a short knurled shaft. This is
attached to a sliding pair of gears. Sliding it in
connects to the input of the above gearbox at one ratio.
Sliding it out at another ratio -- a factor of 8
different from the first.

Yes.


all three of these work together to select the thread pitch --
and to select the feeds. There should be a metal chart giving
the threads and feeds for each setting combination. The
figures are above the slots for the lever in (a) above, and you
will find in fine print the corresponding longitudinal feed,
with a multiplier factor for the cross feed which is slower.

There is the metal plate.


Now -- we get to things in which yours will differ from mine, as
you have variable speed. Sometimes that is from a wheel with two levers
on top of the headstock, or sometimes a crank and a lever from the front
of the pedestal below the headstock. I've not used these, as mine has
belts which you change after opening the front of the pedestal and no
variable speed. So -- I can't guide you on these. Mine also has a
switch box on the front left of the headstock with a lever and knob for
selecting motor behavior.

Left is forwards.

Center is stopped.

Right is reverse.

Yours probably at least has a start-stop switch. I don't know
whether your variable speed also offers forward/reverse selection or
whether you need to switch the motor for that.

It has a three-position switch: forward-off-reverse. I will bypass this
switch, as the VFD will not approve of live switching of motor wiring.

The mechanical variable-speed control does not reverse; this is
accomplished by the above switch.


If you are lucky, there will also be a taper attachment mounted
behind the carriage to allow cutting repeatable tapers.

No such luck. Sniff.


Joe Gwinn